...and back again.
The last time I drove the Alpine Way beyond the Dead Horse was probably 10 years
ago. I remembered a relentlessly winding undulating road, where vehicle
and concentration are tested with little respite.
Bumping
into Zlatko a few weeks back, he suggested that Thredbo-Khancobin return was as
hard as 3peaks. The same altitude gain compressed into 150 km.
Sounded like a great adventure through beautiful country.
The
opportunity presented itself. We were there, and we had road bikes
instead of the usual mounties. We rolled out of Dugbo at 7 sharp.
Crystal clear morning, maybe 15 degrees. As we slowly cranked up to
Dead Horse Gap, pockets of distinctly warm air flagged what the day was likely
to become. Some terrific views through the trees betray the looming drop;
1600 m to 500 m in 18 km. The top of the descent is a delight, cruising
down moderate grades through sub alpine tall timber. The road steepens
before easing very briefly, approx half way, at the Leather Barrel Creek picnic
area. The final 8 km are technical, steep and narrow. Unfamiliar with what might present round the next corner, we play it safe. Not super value
in that regard - a theme for the day. We bottom out, kissing the Murray
River (and Victorian border) at Tom Groggin.
100 m later we are climbing again.
Dead
chip seal, steep pinches and slow drags become the order of the morning.
We've only covered 25 km in the first hour, despite losing a km of
altitude. It becomes apparent that this
is going to be a longer day than I'd envisaged. Looking at the Thredbo to
Khancoban profile (1400 m start and 300 m finish) I thought we'd cruise the 76
km easily in under 3 hours. Think again. We finally get some pay
dirt in the fast run into Geehi (which the Mudge and I yell with gusto in the
stye of YeeeHaa!). We almost get an entirely flat km before the road
tilts upwards and the next 8 % sector slows progress.
The
pinch out of Geehi was just an aperitif for the main climb of the morning,
taking us from 500 m back up to 1000 m over 8 km. The road is unlike any
I've ridden before, threading through a dozen steep walled cuttings, with
chicken wire holding everything in place. Steep, narrow, dead track.
At least it was largely shaded, with almost zero traffic. We
eventually top out at Scammel's Spur and get some pretty amazing views along
the ridge-top before the plummet past the power station all the way into town.
Thankfully the grade for most of the descent is mild. Good value
(GeeeHai!) and not so nasty for the return run.
We
roll into Khancoban with exactly 76 km and 3 hours 26 min on the clock.
The cafe does excellent fried egg sandwiches and perhaps the most
magnificent milkshake in my memory. Tall tin cup, filled to the brim and
sweating with condensation. The surface was so cold we cradled it in our hands,
much the way cold hands savour a warm mug. Ice cream headache cold!
Conditions
were warm and muggy. With 31 C forecast it was now 11 am and time to get
moving. We sweat buckets as we grind from 300m, back up the exposed road
past the Murray 1 Power Station. The upper climb is more shaded. We
pause to watch a brown snake make its way lazily across the tarmac, avoiding
the fate of a dozen of less fortunates. The plummet down through
the cuttings is punctuated by breathtaking views of the main range.
GeeeHai! Bottoming out we are climbing immediately before dropping
once again into Geehi. Now with added gusto; GeeeHai! We both agree that, aside from the impending
big climb at the end, the rest of the course is easier in return mode;
shallower climbs, and pay dirt down all those nasty pinches we suffered on the
way out.
Another
shallow grind is followed by yet another fast run to Tom Groggin. The calm before the storm. Anita is
starting to suffer from hot-foot, so we sooth feet in Snowy Creek and fill
bottles before facing the first half of the big one; 8 km at 8-10%. It
was tough. Lots of snail-pace chugging before the brief respite at
Leather Barrel. We press on and up the last few steep Kms. The gradient eventually eases off in the
trees. Just shy of Dead Horse we hear the once elusive Crescent
Honeyeaters everywhere. So this is where they hang out. A final
GeeeHai!, as the top is gained before dropping back to village just shy of 4
pm, and, more crucially, before the closing of the bakery.
All
in all a top day out, covering 155 km and 4150 meters through some amazing
country. Not quite as tough as 3 peaks, but then again we weren't trying
to post a blistering time. Sometimes pacing makes all the difference.
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