And
now for a dash of something horsey. Last year Paul, from Rolling Ground,
mentioned an epic mtb adventure that takes riders deep into the southern
section of Kosciuszko, but is rather difficult to complete in a day unless
you've got the reserves for a 170 km sitting (complete loop from Jindabyne), or
unless you can organise a car shuffle. The off-road section of the loop
starts just below Dead Horse Gap, following the Cascade Trail, over a ridge,
then drops to a plateau called the Tin Mine area, mostly at elevation 1200-1300
m, which was originally frequented by graziers in the 1800s. 45 km from
the Cascade trail head, and after passing several huts en route, the trail
plunges down a ridge, from 1200 m to 300 m in 6 km, joining the Pinch River
just before it joins the Snowy River
Having
had her fill of excitement the day prior, Gillian kindly offered to pick us up
mid afternoon at the Pinch River exit. We drove to Thredbo, coffee'd at
the Bakery, then Anita, GK and I rolled out with the clock at approx 10 am.
The ease of climbing asphalt from Thredbo (1400 m) was soon replaced by
the rumble of tread searching for traction up the stepped water bars which
punctuate the little used vehicular track of the Cascade Trail. The
first, and fortunately only, snake of the day slithered off the track about a
km from the high point of Bob's Ridge (1800 m) from which great views were
afforded into the Victorian high country to the south west.
From
here the track descends immediately, mirroring that of the ascent; gravelly
runs punctuated by water bars trying to kick you off. A couple of walkers
warned us of snakes ahead. We dropped down to the Tin Mine plateau, and
soon came across Cascade Hut for a brief stop. This is as far as GK and I
got the previous year. We pushed on.
The vehicular track increasingly became double track, with water bars competing
with mounds of horse dung as primary obstacles. Either horses pass
extraordinary amounts of manure in a sitting, or defecation is a communal
ritual, as some of the piles were over a foot high. Obstacles in
their own right. We passed through ghostly forests of 100 ft silver
matchsticks; the remnant trunks from the massive fire that obliterated the area
back in 2003. The new
growth is only meters high, and will likely take generations to get back to its
former splendour.
Eventually
more enclosed forest is gained and the trail flattens out a bit. Smooth
runs punctuated by water bars and dung mounds which afford aerial fun. The Tin
Mine huts are located about half way in. Time for a picnic lunch on some
well manicured lawns. It takes us about 10 min to realise that 70 m to
the east 4 brumbies are lazily grazing.
The
next 10 km are some of the most enjoyable of the day. Lovely flowing
double track through alpine wilderness. Coming round a corner we
encounter another mob of brumbies. One of them holds ground in the middle
of the track before leading off the others as we rumble through. A little
later the shrill squeal of piglets fill our ears as they run for cover. Very cute. We spot the sow (distinctly less cute), and
hope the boar is not too close.
It had all been a bit too easy. With
track running out we finally get some pinch climbs we can't clean, and the thought of how we might descend close to 10 km of the stuff
starts to become a little daunting. We cross the Ingeegoodbee River for
the last time, then gain altitude along the 9 mile pinch road, until we
nervously sidle round a final hilltop. The uncomfortable feeling of
approaching the edge of the world was building. And finally here it was.
Wow. I've seen some impressive things climbing, but this view rates
right up there.
We
gingerly head down the first ramp of a few hundred meters, which is all we can
see, rear wheel sketching here and there, before it kicks 90 degrees to the left. The next ramp is steeper and longer, punctuated, ironically, by
not enough water bars. This really was man from snowy river stuff. I wasn't sure if I could pilot such a long
loose sector. After 10 m I surfed to the side and managed to drop anchor,
advising Anita to try to walk it. This wasn't walkable in the normal
sense. But one could manage controlled glissading steps if you used one
hand to lock the rear wheel and kept the other other hand on the saddle for
support.
GK
showed us what pussies we were by performing an impressive controlled slide
down the entire length of the run. It was frightening to watch as he fish
tailed from one line to another. Once committed, stopping becomes
impossible until the grade slackens. Round the next corner things
actually flattened out for a bit. Be careful what you'd wished for. I
decided I'd encourage Anita to ride all the segments I was reasonably sure
wouldn't involve the front wheel locking up. The aim at this stage was
simply to gain the bottom, no matter how long it took. Anita and I
probably walked half a dozen segments. GK rode the entire thing. It
wasn't till the bottom he revealed that the two-wheeled outlaw had got away
from him on one of the final sectors, losing him a little bark. We
whooped with delight once the bottom had finally been attained, with the Pinch River
gurgling on our left hand side. It was hot, we were parched, and hoped
that we'd see Gillian soon.
We
didn't have to wait long. The Subaru soon appeared, complete with Gillian
and some ice cold Stella longnecks. Truly magic stuff, and a great way to
cap a wild day out the back of nowhere.
The
following day we moved from Jindy to Perisher to catch up with
family, where I read some history of the Tin Mine area. Apparently the 9
miles pinch was just as epic back in the 1800s. Stockmen used to herd cattle and wagons up this same diabolical ridge to enable summer grazing on the
plateau. If I hadn’t read it I wouldn’t have believed that anything,
constructed of flesh or hoof or steel, could grind up such a road. Words
can't quite convey the terror or the thrill. You have to see it for
yourselves.
A great yarn, Dave, and great day out on the MTB; one of the best ever, I reckon. Maybe one of those beacons would be a good idea if we do it again ...
ReplyDeleteYep, it truly was one of the best!
ReplyDelete