Raid Pyrenees; Luchon Fumigations.
Thurs 18th. Once again the reliability of the afternoon thunderstorm had us rolling early....well not early really, but as early as a late evening heavy feed, coupled with beer, wine and whiskey, and multi-course breakfast would allow. First on the riding menu was the Port de Artigascou, which you've no doubt never heard of, gained by way of St Beat and a southerly trajectory to within a whisker of the Spanish border. All GK could tell us was that the climb would go "as far as the road allows....for the pleasure". This turned out to be quite a way, although after about 5 km the narrowing road finally reduced to a mostly gravel track, which at times was less than pleasurable. Where was the mountain bike when i needed it? I persevered through about 4 km of this before finally reaching what I assumed was the col. I met Anita on the return trip and lower down we picked up the others who were dealing with puncture #3. Coupled with Anita dropping it ever-so-gently on one corner we decided to cut our losses....or a least descend back to tarmac-firma-propa, and press on via a brief Spanish interlude before climbing the col de Portillion, crossing back into France, and dropping back into Luchon. 80 km and 1500 m for the day, followed by enthralling viewing of Le Tour's double l'Alpe d'Huez stage.
By now the legs were getting pretty sore. The last time I rode in Europe was 2007, and I'd forgotten how hard back-to-back 100 km can be, at least when the Alps or Pyrenees are the backdrop. No wonder euros tend to log hours over kms. Friday 19th had us venture up and over the Peyresourde then over the col d'Azet which climbs out of the terrific Louron valley. Another magic descent had us on valley roads which looped us north to Arreau and then south back over the Peyresourde (with a brief stop for fritz and 2 dozen crepes at the summit), before bombing the final 14 km home (which took us 17 minutes). My favourite day of riding thus far, covering 90 km and 2500 m of up, and washed down with another terrific meal of GKs creation.
Enough with the hors d'oeuvres and canapes of the first riding week. Time to clean the Gite and pack the bags in readiness for the transfer across to the Atlantic and the Bay of Biscay where the main course of l'official Raid Pyrenees will begin. But not before availing ourselves of the the spa and fumigation which historically put Luchon on the map. Whilst most opted for an additional massage, the heat, humidity and odours of the soviet-style vaporarium and the powerful jets of the spa did a good job of loosening the muscles on our last evening before morning depart.
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