Bravo Cadel!

So proud of the guy - up hill, down dale and round the bend - win or lose.  So much heart - his watery gaze in the start house suggested he would give his all.  Been waiting half my life for this.  Brilliant.  The following Sunday morn trundle was set back an hour, and the weather gods finally smiled after a diabolical week with perfect Sydney skies (wettest Sydney July since 1950 - and still a week to go).  Great times de-briefing at the Cafe.  BT, Mikey, John and Greg we missed you.  Now to sleep for a week!

And yes, the creek was up again:)

More on how not to clearcoat decals on carbon

"I am embarking on the same endeavor. Where did you get your decals made? Also, what kind of clearcoat did you use? Did it come in a can or did you need a compressor / sprayer setup?"

Decals
Made locally by “Signarama” in Surry Hills, Sydney. I don’t know the technical term but they are a 3 layer format; waxy backing paper (removed first), white vinyl lettering/images (the meat in the sandwich), and clear third layer for the purpose of positioning the graphics before being peeled back to leave the graphics in place.

A small air-filled gap of a few mm surrounds the edge of each graphics item (a result of the step at the layer junctions). It’s important when putting the 2-layer sticker on not to force contact to the frame at this junction as the gap allows the clear plastic outer to peel off without also lifting the image layer with it . Peel the clear layer off at the sharpest angle possible. The smaller the art detail the more likely it will lift with the clear outer – I found a sharp metal point was required to hold down the smaller art features. Expect intricate artwork to be more difficult.


Artwork
The lettering and images (white on transparent backing) were designed in a .ppt doc on a big sheet (1m*1m), so that the images could be displayed in real size (largest images being ~30 cm long). I saved the page containing all the art as a .png file (any image format without serious compression would probably suffice), then cropped to the sticker size before saving each image individually (MS picture manager). Starting big means you won’t compromise resolution or show pixilation. Supplied to the printer on a USB stick, the files are then converted to some sort of vector format required for printing. Once the shop has done the conversion, I believe repeat orders are cheaper. I had stickers for three frames made at once, which came out at approx. $30 per set.


Spraying
The bad news is that repeated sanding is a real pain. The good news is that if it all goes to hell it’s amazing what can be achieved with sandpaper. I predominantly used 2 grades – 800 grip to remove the original surface and do the heavy lifting on imperfections, and 1200 grit to attain a smoother surface before applying top coat. I’m told that 1500 or 2000 grit paper exists, although I couldn’t get my hands on any. Sanding is best done wet – just keep dipping the paper in water. This also prevents inhalation of particulates. Use finger pressure behind the paper so as not to produce flat-spots, as might happen with a block of cork or wood. Remove the resultant slurry with a cloth and inspect under good light. Imperfections will jump out as the surface dries, which happens very quickly.


Ideally...
Once the decals are in place, apply 3-4 very light layers of clearcoat. I used “Motospray Acrylic Top Coat Clear”. Practice on a sheet of newspaper first to convince yourself you are still just wetting the surface. Nozzle should be at 20-30 cm. Adjust your angles of attack for each pass to make sure you wet different sides of the tubing. Each "layer" for me is simply 2 gentle consecutive passes of the nozzle (left to right, right to left). Do two passes on the down tube, then the seat-tube etc, slightly adjusting angle of attack for each sweep till all surfaces are covered. For me this = 1 coat. Wait approx. 5 min between layers.  Although touch-dry after 5 min, there is still enough solvent to bond the next layer. The whole process only takes 15-20 min. Leave the frame to dry over a few days (required for traces of solvent to completely vanish – might be quicker in summer). Remember that less can be more! You simply want to seal the edges and provide a thin coat to protect from the elements. One session might indeed suffice.


In the case of my second frame I made the mistake of spraying late in the day as the sun was setting with the temperature dropping fast. I suspect that the last coat caught the dew to produce a matte finish (solvent evaporation is a cooling process). Hence, I sanded this one back lightly, then re-coating the following weekend in the middle of the day. No runs or cracks for either attempt.


Finish
Be warned that the finish achieved by this method is a little grainy (think orange-skin – only visible up close) compared to the original lacquer. I believe the process can be taken further if you are after that absolutely perfect finish. The next step involves something called “cutting compound” – an automotive cream containing some sort of abrasive – to polish and buff the surface to a mirror finish, although for the moment I’ve decided it’s not worth the effort and I just wanted to ride the thing.


I did my frames in winter. I’m guessing that the particles which come from the can might “lie flatter” on the surface in warmer conditions, and produce a finer finish. The vibe I get from petrol-head forums (USA) is that most people wait for the heat of summer to do their final sprays. Additionally, most use some sort of spray gun/air compressor set up, which probably yields finer droplets to give a smoother finish. Many also use a more industrial “2-pac” style paint, which requires the mixing of two components, one of which is extremely toxic, and requires special breathing equipment etc.


Given that bike frames tend to spend good chunks of time wearing grime sweat and tears rather than strutting show-room floors, I reckon that the finish achieved from a hand held aerosol will be more than adequate for most of us to have some fun with.


Hope this helps.

 Cracks in the lacquer that were subsequently sanded out

 That's better - note the slightly rough finish

And finally the build - 8 kg of wombat (7.5 with even vaquely schmicko wheels).  An amazing improvement over the cellnago.  Cost approx 2K.  3K once some nice wheels are factored into the equation.  You can't really beat the budget packages most shops now sell, especially once labour is factored in, but you will end up with something unique.

It's the jersey...obviously

How not to clearcoat decals on carbon

After reading various bits and pieces on the web, which mostly pertained to muscle cars and motor bikes, i finally got round to applying the artwork to my new carbon frame.  What was clear to me was that i needed to first wear away the original clearcoat such that the new clearcoat would have a suitably rough surface to which to adhere.  The downside as far as i could guess is that maybe the decals would adhere less well to such a surface.  I had 2 grades of emery paper at my disposal - 800 grain (relatively course) and 1200 grain (the finest i could find, although 1500 exists, but not at Bunnings).  Surprisingly little effort is required in this regard.  As most of us know, bike frames are easily scratched.  Stickers went on fine. 

Now for the tricky bit.  I opted for an auto acrylic clearcoat lacquer - well, that's what the shop had, as opposed to the more tricksy 2pac option (potentially very toxic if inhaled).  What was unclear to me (forgive the pun) was how many layers of clearcoat would be required, how often and how heavily they should be applied etc.

Nothing like just giving it a go.  Disaster.  In hindsight i applied way too much, the result being runs in the lacquer (unsightly), frothing in places (nozzle too close) and even more disturbingly, lifting of the decals, which are presumably made of vinyl.  The lacquer's organic solvent (dimethyl ether) softened the decal adhesive, resulting in localised lifting and rippling.  This thing was going to look awful.  Once the clearcoat was dry to touch, i squashed the decals back into place as best i could and hung the thing up to cure, whilst contemplating ordering stickers all over again and getting it professionally done (for effectively 1/2 the price of a new frame). 

Petrol-head to the rescue.  Under GKs instruction, wet-sanded everything back - much more efficient and smoother than dry sanding.  Removed the frothing, flattened the runs etc, and was able to remove some of the ugglyness of the bad sectors of decals.  Some removal of decal edges was inevitable, but perhaps this thing was salvageable after all.  Re-applied clearcoat - very light layers this time, applied a few minutes apart.  Time will tell, but at present i'm pretty happy with the result, and looking fwd to building it up. 

Attack of the dreaded wrinkles

Take two

 Four final coats in toto

Time to build

The Mudge's frame in prep.  This was sprayed late in the day.  The cooler temp results in a dull sheen.  Wrinkle-free.  Next weekend another sand-back before final light clearcoat in the middle of the day which will result in a high gloss finish to match the rest of the frame, although i quite like the matt finish.

Keep the wound wet

Historically i've been a practitioner of drying out gravel rash as fast as possible.  Some time has passed since my last major off, and the trend seems to now be one of keeping things wet.  My recent Anzac Bridge bingle provided the opportunity to give it a go.  Dropped by the chemist on the way to work, and a stretchy membrane (Opsite-style) was applied immediately to elbow and knee.  Lots of weeping/leaking ensued thoughout the next few days.  In the eve of day 1 another considerably larger membrane, this time with added gauze, was added over the top to catch the mess.  After a week, this outer was replaced by another - soggy scab visible through the inner membrane.  A much better option in my opinion.  After about day 2 zero discomfort, and no morbid picking possible.  Only concession was keeping it out of the shower - body juices only, i decided.  After 2 weeks the whole shebang was removed.  Amzing how the body patches itself up - could barely tell i'd been off, and will certainly be adopting a similar approach for the next one - which will hopefully not be for some time.

A case of the Mulga Bill's

Actually, several cases;

Andy, Chris and Kev got the ball rolling in the Mont - damaged shoulder, knee and ribs (no wonder Ben wanted in for some action).  Then it was GK's turn at Dirtworks (back).  Anita got bounced by a car - as a pedestrian! (bruised coccyx)  I must have been feeling left out and parked it on the Anzac Bridge cycleway (LH side), and then Ham and GK got up to more mischief at the Appin Rock Wallaby last weekend (knee and vertebrae - a close shave GK!).  All not-so gentle reminders that it can be dangerous out there, especially on the mtb, although the road is not to be sneezed at either.

For those who haven't read it in a while, here is BJ Patersons ditty on the subject in full.  Feel free to substitute names circumstances and places as suits.  And speedy recovery to all!

'Twas Mulga Bill, from Eaglehawk, that caught the cycling craze;
He turned away the good old horse that served him many days;
He dressed himself in cycling clothes, resplendent to be seen;
He hurried off to town and bought a shining new machine;
And as he wheeled it through the door, with air of lordly pride,
The grinning shop assistant said, "Excuse me, can you ride?"


"See here, young man," said Mulga Bill, "from Walgett to the sea,
From Conroy's Gap to Castlereagh, there's none can ride like me.
I'm good all round at everything as everybody knows,
Although I'm not the one to talk - I hate a man that blows.
But riding is my special gift, my chiefest, sole delight;
Just ask a wild duck can it swim, a wildcat can it fight.
There's nothing clothed in hair or hide, or built of flesh or steel,
There's nothing walks or jumps, or runs, on axle, hoof, or wheel,
But what I'll sit, while hide will hold and girths and straps are tight:
I'll ride this here two-wheeled concern right straight away at sight."


'Twas Mulga Bill, from Eaglehawk, that sought his own abode,
That perched above Dead Man's Creek, beside the mountain road.
He turned the cycle down the hill and mounted for the fray,
But 'ere he'd gone a dozen yards it bolted clean away.
It left the track, and through the trees, just like a silver steak,
It whistled down the awful slope towards the Dead Man's Creek.


It shaved a stump by half an inch, it dodged a big white-box:
The very wallaroos in fright went scrambling up the rocks,
The wombats hiding in their caves dug deeper underground,
As Mulga Bill, as white as chalk, sat tight to every bound.
It struck a stone and gave a spring that cleared a fallen tree,
It raced beside a precipice as close as close could be;
And then as Mulga Bill let out one last despairing shriek
It made a leap of twenty feet into the Dean Man's Creek.


'Twas Mulga Bill, from Eaglehawk, that slowly swam ashore:
He said, "I've had some narrer shaves and lively rides before;
I've rode a wild bull round a yard to win a five-pound bet,
But this was the most awful ride that I've encountered yet.
I'll give that two-wheeled outlaw best; it's shaken all my nerve
To feel it whistle through the air and plunge and buck and swerve.
It's safe at rest in Dead Man's Creek, we'll leave it lying still;
A horse's back is good enough henceforth for Mulga Bill."

Artwork