Andersons and Oaks mtb trails

With Dirtworks looming I thought it high time to get in some mtb practice in the form of a couple of Saturdays on trails of the lower blue mountains. The first outing aimed for the Oaks trail, by first riding up the highway. I managed to rope in a couple from work (John and Frances), Ben from climbing, and even Gerard with a brand spanker (Specialzed Epic), whom we were to meet at Woodford. As is often the case with these mtb capers, there were a few stops, starts and issues along the way. Before we even started we had to swap two sets of slicks for two sets of knobblies for John and Frances. En route up the highway, Ben punctured on a bottle thoughtfully dispatched by a motorist. We all ran over the debris - it was perhaps inevitable that one of us should be claimed. This was the first of many punctures for Ben on the day – not surprising given the thinness of his rear tyre which was losing teeth. The same wheel broke a handful of spokes before the day was out. Upon meeting Gerard we learnt that the rear “brain” suspension on the epic was already bleeding oil on its inaugural ride – and we hadn’t even hit the rough stuff yet. The result - fully active "pogo" suspension all the time. Most of us had some kind on incident coming down the trail – including myself, due to the sheer stupidity of trying repeatedly to master the mono clipped in, only to flip the thing and land square on my back, although John, who witnessed it from directly behind thought it an excellent trick but not one he wanted to emulate.

I should add that this was the first “mobile” outing for the inevitable acquisition the langles mobile (thanks to BT, Gerard and the jibes from a cast of thousands) – hence the modification of the blog banner. Somehow landing on my back failed to crush this new extravagance.

The following weekend Ben and I were keen for the Andersons/Oaks double, again making a loop of it by riding up the highway from Glenbrook to Wentworth Falls, where we met Tony who was only keen for the downhill bit. Despite threatening rain all day, we managed to escape any serious dousings, but we weren’t able to escape the usual array of mechanicals. These started early (km 12) with Ben cracking a front hub bearing such that the front wheel virtually seized. A bit of manipulation and luck resulted in the wheel turning normally again, but not before some serious concern about how we were going to get the thing back to the car, let alone fixed. We gambled on continuing, and as it turned out the wheel gave no more trouble for the rest of the day. His rear wheel, shod with a new tire and with some new spokes (damaged last week), gave no further trouble, although after the first big descent of the day he flipped his brake pad to the correct orientation! Tony on the other hand ended up with all the punctures, not to mention taking the odd spill on some of the descents, although fortunately didn't break anything or lose lose too much claret for his efforts. The killer climb back to Woodford was not quite as dreadful as I remember, probably due to it being a lovely 18-20 C, as opposed to bloody hot when I’ve done it previously. Not feeling too bad, I had two cracks at it. The first involved 4 stops, and the second only 3. The second time round I got the bottom half clean – something I hadn’t managed before, so perhaps my bike handling skills are improving. On a good day I reckon I’ll crack the whole thing clean (he says now!).

Having negotiated Andersons, the Oaks trail finish now seemed pretty tame. It was very satisfying to be knocking off both in the same day (a 90 km round trip). Having got through the technical part of the Oaks, Ben (who was on a schedule) and I bid Tony good luck and pushed ahead, giving the single track some stick before wallowing up the final climb back to the car. Riding too and from the Concord oval rendezvous (where I met Ben, and where he dropped me off) made it probably the longest day I’ve ever had on an mtb (120 km), although about ½ of this was on the hard black stuff. Now, one more weekend to go before Dirtworks proper. I just hope we get some dry weather – the monotonous weeks of rain are making training difficult.

Ben, Frances and John at Glenbrook stream

Rare sighting of Gerard with mtb

Ben and Tony - Andersons trail

Tony re-adjusts the kitchen sink

we did this a few times - even claiming a pump in the process

I am now connected - damn!

top of the Oaks trail

Ben showing good helmet head

Cosmic County

Cosmic County, 30-03-2008

Having been to the Freezer a few times this year, and periodically gazed across to the majestic walls of the County, it was inevitable that I should make the effort to return to what used to be (about 15 years ago) my favorite crag. Not exactly sure why I have given it a wide berth for such a long time – probably a combination of access (now quite a hike) and my memory of sustained crimping on wafer thin holds which would have surely all been dislodged during the intervening years. In short, I was scared that I wouldn’t be able to climb anything there any more – well, the thin grade 21 walls in particular that I used to like so much.

I needn’t have been nervous – the routes are still there, and all the holds too (mostly). Had an awesome day – can’t believe it took so long. We started on the 80 minute hour (18), which Anita led without much fuss. Much more enjoyable than I remember, although we both avoided the bouldery start – which now looks more like 23 (I think a few more edges have disappeared). Next on the menu was Clip or Die (21), a lovely climb on the awesome main wall with a hard traverse finish that I have always struggled to get through. This time however, I seemed to have the wood on it, and did it the easiest I can remember. It’s amazing to think that all those amazing fine-ironstone crimpers and incuts are still attached to the main wall – just a joy to climb. Hadn’t quite had my fill of these, so launched up Colditz next (21), which I was expecting to be sharper, but wasn’t too bad this time. Must be climbing OK. After lunch, Anita got the sharp end of Exploding Zombies (20), which is actually quite sustained in places, and perhaps should also be graded 21 (in keeping with the theme of the main wall). With one climb left in me I decided to give “Build a better mousetrap” a go (22). I have got this on second (just) previously, so was keen to see if it had become any easier, now that I seem to have a bit of form, and because for some reason it has been downgraded from 23 to 22 (surely that makes it easier!). Not so. Unfortunately had to have a couple of hangs to work out how to negotiate the crux, and I got spat off a little higher where the route turns into a pump on what were now tired and worn tips. Anita threatened to do to me what I used to do to Neil (get a climb clean on second that he had rested on during lead), cleaning through the crux without issue, but came a cropper higher up in the pump section, where a reach problem (reachy for me) turned the route into a substantially harder prospect for a short Mudge. She eventually got it, and we bailed as the sun was just about to dip past the horizon. We left behind a group of 4, one of which was being rescued high up on “I’d rather be sailing” (19) – a victim of poor pro (still), massive fall potential, and shot nerves. So keep that in mind if you find yourself taken with this fine line.


Anita high on "The 80 minute hour" (18)


Ultra-thin excellence - Colditz (21)



High and dry on "I'd rather be sailing" (19)

Dirty Rotten Pig

Dirty Rotten Pig (95 m, 19, 19, 15, 14), 16-03-08

A party the night before was followed by a refreshing dip in the ocean at Bronte, before heading up to Katoomba for an afternoon climb at Boars Head, just west of the Narrowneck peninsular. Dirty Rotten Pig was another multipitch sport route recommended to me by a Katoomba local whilst climbing at Boyce a few months ago. Only the access for this one was a little more interesting than most. Although the cliff is only a few hundred meters from the car, the descent involves 4 abseils (although two of these can be combined). The first abseil drops you into the gulley separating the Boars head massif from the main cliff line. A short sidle on an ever narrowing ledge has you traversing almost 2/3 rds of the way around a buttress – in fact into the chimney formed between this buttress and the next, and out the other side, all with a tremendous drop between your feet down a chimney on par with the Darkside chimney behind Mirrorball pinnacle at Pierces Pass (NB: if desired this traverse can be led on rings which periodically adorn the traverse). Three abseils later (all off obvious chains) we emerged at the bottom of the chimney and skirted another narrow edge to the base of the route (the true bottom being still way down yonder).

The start, as it often is on these multi-pitch sport routes, was a little goey (questionable footholds), but in no time I was scooting up what turned out to be a lovely pitch and probably the best of the climb. 40 m of well protected (all U’s) generally solid rock with varied and interesting climbing. The crux was at about 30 meters where impending steepness is negotiated by pulling on a hollow flake through to good jugs and an easier finish to a triple U belay.

Anita led the next pitch (also 19) which first involved gaining the arête not too far to the left. Once gained it was sobering to realise that the façade of good rock on our wall was hiding a massive orange chalky chossmonster interior on the other side of the wedge, which one gets only a brief glimpse of on the first pitch (the rotten core of the Dirty Rotten Pig). Anita moved back right onto the main face, as dictated by the line of rings, and was about 4 bolts up when off she came! A handhold on an already relatively blank section had given way. Once again, I think Anita ended up leading the most difficult pitch of the climb – involving a relatively blank section with smaller sloppier holds and more coarsely grained rock. I was fortunate to be able to use my go-go-langles reach to negotiate this section, but the brief insecurity I experienced unsettled me as I finished the pitch, nervously selecting which iron-stone edges and plates were worthy of trust (get in while it’s still 19). Regained my mojo on the next pitch (only grade 15), the crux of which was really just choosing which ironstone plates to trust. Didn’t beak any, but it is reassuring to know that the entire route is ring bolted should you break something off and get some air time. Having gained the summit of the main wall, a short meander on more narrow ledges got us back to the base of the first abseil where a short grade 14 pitch (3 U’s, actually pretty full-on and slopey for 14!) got us back to terra firma proper. Car to car ~ 4 hrs 20 min. Overall, a nice adventure up a very impressive headwall which is "cleaning up nicely" (not too much loose stuff).

In the middle of the monster chimney

finally, the base of the climb is attained

Anita near the end of the first pitch

Exposure kicking in


Anita gains the rotten arete a few meters before a wee tumble on friable rock


At the second pitch belay


mid 3rd pitch, looking down the route, which is steep, but on generally huge jugs

topping out

The Boar's head, although we thought it more like a Hippo


The top 2 headwall pitches take a line just to the right of the cheesecask arete

victory beer (and chips) - better consumed here than in the dingy confines of the "Katoomba Family Hotel"

Bunny Bucket Buttress

Pierces Pass - Bunny Bucket Buttress (270m; 18, 18, 18, 8, 8, 17, 17 17, 14)
(Sunday 2/3/08)

BBB is one of those huge multipitch routes I’d had my eye on for some time, but always balked at, with fears of not being fit enough, or simply being overwhelmed by prolonged exposure (in space, no one can hear you scream). With my climbing fitness better than average, and the days rapidly getting shorter – and with a reasonable forecast – it was now or never. Anita was also willing and keen to swing leads. We departed from the Pieces Pass carpark at 9:10 and headed for the Mirrorball abseil. The walk in was punctuated by the sound of parachutes ripping the air. We counted 7 BASE jumpers who like lemmings threw themselves off Walls Lookdown – kind of made me feel ill. Fortunately didn’t have to witness any casualties. The Mirrorball abseil is precariously situated at the end of an ever diminishing slopey ledge with a few poxy-looking trees as anchors. One such tree serves as the anchor which drops you down 45m to the top of the Mirrorball pinnacle. A second double-rope abseil off rings gets you to the base of the cliff. I wasn’t particularly impressed by the number of large trees which had recently departed the ledge (most likely due to heavy rain) – some of which were considerably bigger than the tree we were to use. Hopefully someone will install a chain anchor soon before this tree does a number on someone. Despite my reservations (we were there) we slipped down the abseils to the base of the cliff and sidled along till we found the start of BBB.

After a bouldery start the first of 3 consecutive grade 18 pitches was under way. I led the first and the third (and all odds for the rest of the climb), whilst Anita led the 2nd and the rest of the evens. The first drops of rain started to fall as Anita started on the second pitch. “Did you feel that” was about as much discussion transpired about the weather – we pushed on hoping that if it were going to get ugly, it did it soon, rather than another 5 pitches up where escape would be a nightmare. Fortunately, it didn’t get any worse although remained overcast for the bulk of the day. After 3 great grade 18 pitches, a shallow slab (grade 8) led to a poxy belay from a tree which has definitely seen better days (surely this one will disappear soon too – along with the entire ledge it is attached to), followed by another pitch which is a bit of a jungle bash but gets you to the base of the big cheesecake section and final awesome headwall, which afforded lunch and Anita’s turn to lead through the roof (grade 17). This she did with aplomb (for me it was the hardest pitch of the climb – complicated by my left hand intermittently cramping). No sooner had she breached the roof (much sandy nonsense) she called down “jug city!” and raced up the rest of the pitch on one of the most amazing head walls I’ve seen. The following pitch was great fun – big jugging on good rock (bunny buckets!) in a very impressive position to a hanging belay. Next time it would be worth running this pitch together with the following (also 17) to eliminate the awkward belay. Finally, a loose and meandering grade 14 pitch lead to the summit. We wisely carried everything with us so didn’t have to return to the Mirrorball rap to retrieve gear. Followed the faint track along the ridge back to Bell’s line, and along this back to the car. Car-to-car 8 hrs 10 min. A thoroughly out-there but enjoyable day.

I suppose it was officieally no longer summer

The Mudge chillin at the top of the second pitch. The exposure is starting to kick in, although at least the rain has stopped.

Early during the 3rd pitch (18)

- which traverses a little before blasting up an arete. Many of the pitches benefitted from double ropes

Anita pushing through the mank to an awesome headwall (Pitch 6)

At the top of the pitch 6 belay

Topping out (?) at the 7th pitch hanging belay

The last serious pitch (#8, at grade 17) and the finish to the fantastic headwall (3 pitches long)

Pitch 8 belay

Finally some sun for the cruise back to the car.

Drenched

One of the most amazing storms I've ever been caught in. Full blown thunder, lightening - indeed frightening - for about 25 minutes. Man, i'm pretty over this Sydney summer weather. Contemplating the use of axle-greese for chain lube. Might just have to throw the current chain away first - its already rusted up a few times courtesy of the wafer-thin rubbish they market as chain lube these days.

Arapiles 08

Late Feb 2008

Given the extreme heat suffered towards the end of Araps 07, there was initially little enthusiasm for Araps 08, but eventually three of us committed to habiting the dust/beer/blood of the pines once again. The pigs in the pines were back – although not as back as in recent years, thanks to Anita’s determination to clean up all traces of the peanut shells which would normally adorn such a camp.

Having just attended the Lorne Conference on Protein Structure and Function, I did the shopping then picked Neil and Anita up from Avalon at about 9 pm. We bombed it all the way to the pines, setting up camp in the wee hours in the bottom-middle section – reasonable shade and reasonably flat. With temperatures of 35 C expected every day, the plan was to be smart and stick to gullies in the mornings before hitting the sun-effected faces in the afternoons.

Day 1 got off to a rocky start when we bashed up to the start of Saracen (16) on Dunes buttress only for Anita to discover, when it was her turn to climb, that she’d forgotten her shoes – back to camp for her. Having led the first pitch I belayed Neil before he tackled the grade 20 variant second pitch (Scarecrow) with ease, although I found it pretty goey. Another typically lumpy pitch got us to the top after which we did the 2 abseils required to get back to Central Gully terra firma. After lunch we headed up to the Atridae, for a much awaited (for Neil and I, at least) re-acquaintance with It’ll Never Fly, which had gained a grade since we last did it many years ago (now 24). It soon became obvious why. A low flake has disappeared making the initial moves thin and bloody hard, but we managed to pull through on the gear and once again enjoy the grade 23 traverse. Anita wasn’t so keen on having a go – a bit spooked by the exposed approach – so opted for a climb round the corner, Hell For Leather (16), which turned out to be lovely and full-on for the grade (as they usually are for Araps).

On Day 2 we headed for Major Mitchell Gully and started on the lovely Kinkaid (18). Anita then led the committing Philanthropist (15), after which Neil had a play on Feral Chicken (22), although couldn’t quite get through the crux due to weeping holds. We then moved to the top of the gulley and I managed to get through Firedance (20), which turned out to be quite nice, as the guide suggested it would be, despite its uninspiring appearance. With the sun now dancing across to the other side of Dunes buttress, we strapped ourselves in for one of my favorites, Eskimo Nell (10). Five pitches (and some caving) later we were on the top and made our way back to camp (abseils) for requisite showers, beer (kept cold in a dedicated esky) and the evening meal and banter – although en route Neil and Anita hadn’t quite had their fill so ticked XI (18) on Fang Buttress whilst I hit the beer and the hammock.

Day 3 saw us start in the shade of D-minor buttress to tackle firstly Aardvark (18) followed by the excellent Cadenza (20). No incidents with belays this time (the advantage of doing it in one pitch and twin ropes). As our food and beer supplies were running a little low we then skipped into wHorsham for a swim and a shop. Murmurings of a rest afternoon were quashed by me (of all people), so we headed up to the King Rat cliffs in the afternoon to sample “I’m A Little Asteroid” and I’m A Little Dinosaur” (both 18). I was tickled to discover little dinosaurs en route!

Day 4 saw us start up Central Gully Right where Neil jumped on Rosy Shy (which has since been upgraded to 20 – it was always a tough assignment at 19), Anita led Stalacmite (12) and I led Preludes (17), which had some lovely roofy moves up near the top. It was nice to be milling around the Pillars of Hercules again. Noticed that Dreadnought gulley has been re-chained – my yearly contributions to the Nati bolting fairies perhaps paying off. After lunch we made the long and arduous trek to Upper Yesterday Gulley where Neil had eyes for Blue Hawaii (21). This turned into quite a battle, with Neil yo-yoing up and down just below the crux, trying to figure it out and get the protection sorted (not great pro) without blowing the onsight or killing himself. Eventually (that boy has stamina) he cracked the crux, then made the rest look easy, despite my finding it quite sustained in places. Certainly the lead of the trip. Anita was next and climbed Future Past (15) which was another lovely meandering route benefitting from twin ropes. With the sun well on the way down, we rapped from the Blue Hawaii anchors, packed up, and trudged back to camp. En route, we came across the squeeze boulder that we played with during the last trip, and managed to sandbag Anita into giving it a go. Unsurprisingly, it only took her about 5 minutes before she emerged out the birth canal at the other end – couldn’t stop laughing. We think next on the list for her is the infamous squeeze high up through the back of the watchtower! (aka Mr Chicken).

Day 5 – our last day of climbing. We decided to have a day on the Bluffs. Anita kicked things off leading a nice grade 15 on John’s Pinnacle (Shoadee). Next lead was mine, and I opted for one of two 18’s at the end of the Pinnacle (Shanghai). This looked to be a little dodgy to protect at the start – and sure it was, but once the bottom crux was negotiated (and broken ankles avoided) it turned into a lovely line on an arête with consistently good gear. We then trudged further up the hill to the lovely chalked line just down from Thunder Crack. Unrequited (22) is one of those lines that Neil and I had walked past many times and thought, “well, maybe next time”. Couldn’t think of any excuses not to give it a go, and, we were there! Fortunately it was Neil’s lead. It quickly became apparent that this route was going to require maximum effort for the grade and turned into a bit of a siege – with Neil backing up piece after piece in a seam that wasn’t nearly as bomber, or easy to climb, as it looked. In all the climb soaked up about 8 runners in ~10 meters, 2 of which were spat out at one stage, another 4 of which were spat out higher up as Neil wrestled with the little traverse. One of the nuts which came sliding down the line squared me straight in the nuts – served me right for not belaying from closer in to the line. Neil subsequently managed to scale it clean on top-rope, whilst I required a few rests at the crux.

We descended back down Ali’s (which has also been re-chained, BTW). Then headed to the base of Bard Buttress for our last hurrah of the trip. Although already feeling drained from the day’s activities (Ali’s can take it out of you – even if you only abseil back down it), I somehow found myself at the base of The Desired (19), geared to the gills, tied in, and pondering the steep and powerful line – all 40 meters of the first pitch. From the ground, the cruxs looked to be located at three overlaps. The first I got through OK – felt about right for 19. Perhaps the crux was over with? Not so fast! The second overlap turned into a desperate thrash as I first wrong-handed myself, then had to correct the move and advance to a reasonable stance to de-pump, all whilst not falling off (“if you don’t let go, you can’t fall” – Jerry Moffat). Felt like 19 going on 22! Neil of course cruised through both cruxes without fuss claiming that yet again I had neglected obvious jams which made the thing relatively easy. After the horrors of the first pitch (I won’t be rushing back to lead it again any time soon), I was relieved to have Neil lead the grade 17 second pitch – which I still found pretty desperate (batteries running low at this stage). Anyway, all three of us got up it OK, then sidled around the side of Bard Buttress to Ali’s and the rap descent.

Next morning we packed the car as it started to rain (naturally the cooler weather arrived as we departed) and gunned it back to Sydney (about 11 hrs for the 1100 km). Overall a good trip – just too short, with everyone starting to gain fitness and form by the time we were leaving. Same old story.

Neil high on Scarecrow (20)

Neil spanning on It'll Never Fly (24)

Anita on Hell For Leather (16)

Caving on Eskimo Nell

Neils memory trick for tying the alpine butterfly.

"Budda sits on the mountaintop, crosses one leg
then the other...."

...then sticks his head through his arse"

Atop Eskimo Nell


Anita on "I'm a little Asteroid" (18)

Dinosaurs en route

Dave on the lower crux of Aardvark (18)

Neil at one of the Herculean Pillars

Pigs in the pines

Neil sizing up Blue Hawaii (21)

...and placing wires

Anita emerging through the birth canal of the squeeze boulder

Anita on Shoadee (15)

Dave sillouetted on Shanghai (18)

Dave contemplates the first crux on The Desired (19)

At the tiny belay on The Desired