tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20441412642171422732024-03-06T06:23:30.152+11:00langles confronts technologyunder old managementlangleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.comBlogger308125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-32619047561849274122023-11-10T13:31:00.002+11:002023-11-10T13:31:19.851+11:00Cloudride Prologue 2022<p>
</p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter",serif; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Cloudride Prologue 2022</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter",serif; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter",serif; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">(PS: Yes, posted more than a year after the fact, but here it is...) <br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter",serif; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter",serif; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">I really enjoyed the 2021 Cloudride Proloque, so
was keen for another edition on a different course, taking in more of the
amazing country that one can explore only a day’s ride from Canberra.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This year the proposed route was reputedly a
fairly serious anticlockwise loop taking in Cobargo, kissing the coast at
Bermagui and Narooma, before some rough and tumble climbing back inland to Braidwood
then home to Canberra. However, the weather during the few months leading in,
which has oscillated between monsoonal and biblical for the coastal strip, coupled
with a potentially conflicting work date, had me resigned to giving this year a
miss (pondered over many days observing gloomy conditions through the train
window, rather than riding to work).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These
are tough events with a big mental component, and I just didn’t fancy trying to
convince myself I was having fun if drenched most of whole time on terrible
roads – not to mention the thrashing the bike would receive.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter",serif; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter",serif; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">A week out Steve Watson (the organiser) posted that
the combination of washed-out roads and potentially high river crossings necessitated
a re-route. Steve quickly devised an alternative “lightning-fast” inland course
with only 8000 mV – testament to his encyclopaedic-knowledge of the Monaro
region.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Despite being unsure of my
fitness I signed up – anything to get me out of my garage where the tires on
various bikes were literally growing mould.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter",serif; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter",serif; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Arriving at the start we parked directly behind the
intimidating athletic silhouette of Matt Warner-Smith (the mystery gun whose
emergent SPOT startled dot-watchers partway through the race) as he was putting
his extremely minimalist kit together including skinny 40 mm slicks. Anita
commented that he looked like he was only out for a few hours – compared to my
more kitchen-sink approach. I thought he must be a local with inside
knowledge. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He took off like a champagne
cork, gapping the field immediately. I started mid-pack but gradually inched
forward in the company of another rider – Wes Hart (another former climber who
instantly recognised Anita at the start, so introduced himself - we were both
riding OPENs shod with 50 mm tyres).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Having
not seen any of the course I was very nervous about resupply options –
particularly what time we’d make Nimmitabel (180 km), then Berridale (230km),
which I’d figured were the only realistic resupply points given my predicted
schedule. But time and distance seemed to pass quickly whilst shooting the
breeze with Wes as we discussed climbing and cycling connections, other gravel
adventures, the difficulty sourcing bike parts, and assorted minutiae. For a
while there we were joined by Heath Wade (fellow Tour Divide alumni) and Mike
Brennan and a few others. All were enjoying the vibe of great roads through
lovely country on a spectacular day. After the beautiful but steep Tinderry
climb it was just Wes and I again, tapping out a rhythm we were both reasonably
comfortable with, cruising on roads not nearly as gunked-up as feared.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter",serif; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter",serif; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">We were relieved to hit Nimmitabel (180 km, and
> 3000 m vert) and its famous bakery at approx. 3:30 pm. I considered
not stopping, but was glad we did (pie and coke).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The segment between Nimmitabel and Berridale
was simply stunning – hardpack rollers gradually descending velvet folds of an
expansive valley on a perfect day – it honestly doesn’t get much better! At
5:30 pm we hit Berridale (230 km) and the realisation that the pie cabinet at
the Mobil servo was completely bare. We ducked off-route to the pizza van at
the Jindy-end of town only to receive news that despite having just opened for
the eve, the wait time was already over an hour!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Onwards. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter",serif; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter",serif; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">As luck would have it, Wes and I hit the Snow Goose
Hotel in Adaminaby (295 km) at 9 pm, and whilst the kitchen was long-closed
they put some frozen pizzas in the oven for us - once the oven heated up that
is, which took about half an hour. Heath joined us just as the pizzas
were served - great timing! All 3 of us rolled out at 10, and were glad
to be out of there before any of the extremely pissed locals hit the roads.
Before long we were back on the dirt for what was a very difficult last
150 km, including some diabolically loose, rutted and bone rattling descents.
With 130 km to go, and having had to walk some steep sections towards the 1500
m high point, I bid Wes farewell and watched him gradually vanish into the
darkness of the Long Plain road. Too strong!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Definitely well past the transition from
racing to survival. A particularly rutted descent led to the technical Goodradigbee
river crossing at 400 km, access to which was complicated by waist-high strappy
grass tangling all through my drive train.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>My bare feet and sore body struggled with the stony bottom whilst
keeping the bike aloft, so I ended up just pushing the rig with submerged axles
through the bulk of the flow to the other side (sorry bearings!). A brutal
climb up the Brindabellas commenced (600 m over 10 km – also requiring some
walking), which was followed by the long bone-rattling Two Sticks descent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Meredith Quinlan later suggested the trail
should be re-named “Hell Rocks”. How I didn’t puncture about 10 times
I’ll never understand. Definitely 20 km designed for the MTB. Heath
(astride a 29er hard tail) had already proved much faster than me on earlier
descents, so I expected him to pick me up again at some point. I finally hit
the sealed road and after the Uriarra Crossing over a very swollen Murrumbidgee
began the slow grind out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Near the top I
stopped to oil the chain and was crest fallen to see not one but two bike
headlights, side by side, coming from the bottom of the hill in the morning
light. I had contented myself with likely coming home 3rd, but the rate I
was crawling I quickly accepted these guys (Heath, and presumably one of the
Mikes – Brennan or Israel) were too good and that it would be 5<sup>th</sup>
(which I was totally fine with – one makes peace very quickly when spent).
A few min later I had to laugh out loud as a pair of road cyclists cruised
passed me! When I finally got to the end, I had no idea that Wes was actually
first home, and that Matt had succumbed to multiple punctures, and a
navigational hiccup, which is why I never saw him. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter",serif; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter",serif; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Big thanks to Steve for organising such a great
event.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I know he devotes a tremendous
amount of time, effort, not to mention petrol dollars researching these courses
and being on top of various contingencies. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Congrats to Matt, Wes, Heath, and all the
other riders who toed the start and together make this such an iconic and
friendly event.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And to Anita for being
so supportive of me wanting to dabble in the odd “not-normal” adventure.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter",serif; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter",serif; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Thanks to Wes for some terrific pics <br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter",serif; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEjAaVuKFtEHk0X4Gh-VoJz-3f-57wy1mZBRg-jPqLPLPewvaZTEJt6qjnukC_iRPjF19RTNeMYXpL9VNsF3eMX9gi8LDI2KEES1W0fJFZOFyS2hFm4M1-BTk_mm2SG3KUO8qYsyHkpsDnmu-eN5yMdwiPmVWZtpB_UUxuP6gx_0h5Rcy7IEsingkaC_aX/s2892/Screen%20Shot%202022-03-15%20at%202.35.32%20pm.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> </span></p>
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{page:WordSection1;}</style></p>langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-59909436008277427042021-03-10T14:56:00.011+11:002021-03-11T09:52:24.631+11:00Cloudride Prologue 500 (2021)<p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">When I heard that this years Cloudride Prologue comprised a northerly route out of Canberra, passing through Taralga and some of the country I’ve enjoyed touring in the past, I mentally committed to having a crack. I’ve never seriously been tempted by the full blown Cloudride1000 or the Hunt1000, both with reputations for an overly generous helping of rough trails and hike-a-bike, requiring the best part of a week to complete - after which my hands might be damaged for months. I’m just not tough enough for that stuff. When distilled, for me the joy of riding and touring is to have the country sliding past at a meditatively satisfying pace, with achilles intact and hands that still work afterwards. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">The Prologue, by contrast is half the distance and fashioned to be more user friendly. However, 500 km on mostly dirt tracks is still a bloody long way, so the bike will be loaded, and heavy, and a sleep might be required. Services on this year’s route comprised three main towns - Crookwell at 160 km, Taralga at 210, and Marulan at 342. Whilst most of the route looked to be farm tracks, the exception was the section between 200 and 300 km, which snaked through some dark wrinkly terrain on the toppo. Confoundingly, even though I thought I had a grasp of the Taralga area, the route navigated back-roads to the back-roads, some barely identifiable on googlemaps. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Anita was relieved to have me doing something relatively close to home that would only take a weekend, and was also keen to do some longer gravel rides as well as an overnighter at the Taralga pub to check out the northern loop. The crux of the course turned out to be the rutted loose descent of the Guineacor Fire Trail, which drops 350 m in only a few km, before an equally steep and technical push up the other side. Anita and I walked extended sections, down as well as up. Loose and rutted for the best part of 10 km! <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">The race dawned amid perfect conditions - dry with min of 8, max of 22 C. I’m rubbish in heat and humidity, so this suited me perfectly. It was nice catching a few friendly faces at the start - Paul Lester, Mike Israel and Meredith Quinlan, then at 6 am we were off. I struggled keeping pace early on in the single track dust, with my new K-lite lights intermittently switching from full blast to a faint showing (wtf?). I trouble-shot this later in the day (phew!) and had nothing but brilliant lights once the skies darkened again. [The trick with the ‘pass-through’ bar switch (USB always on, regardless of lights on/off) is to disengage the cache battery at night if this is being drawn down by the navigation devices, prompting the cache battery to periodically steal power from the lights to top itself up] <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">With the sun finally up I was on my own, getting comfortable along Mulligans Flat, and starting to see the odd rider in the distance. I guessed there were probably 10-15 (of 60) up the road, including, no doubt, a 7-time 24 hr world champion (Jason English), and a bunch of NRS-caliber young-guns. I picked up a few riders then, after more chasing, closed on a bunch of about 5 including Mr English in Pivot kit, so I figured I must now be near the pointy end. According to Jason there were another two up the road. Half the group got the memo about this being a no-drafting event. The other half drafted shamelessly! In any case I figured if I was riding in the company of JE I was probably running a bit hot so deliberately let these guys ride away. Back by my lonesome. But not for long. Gradually a rider would once again become visible, perhaps sit on for a bit, then get dumped on a pinch. I passed another stopped by the track in fluorescent kit I’d not seen before - presumably one of the front-runners. After about 130 km, incredibly, I figured there might only be Jason out in front given evidence writ into the track before me, which now started to climb, and continued doing so for the best part of 10 km up quite a spectacular ridge. I gave it some gas to consolidate whatever position I had. Topping out onto a section of sealed road I got a great surprise to be greeted by another rider holding up two fingers (indicating second); former Tour Divide alumni Heath Wade, who’d come out from his home town of Yass to give myself and Paul Lester a shout. We had a nice catch-up on a short bit of tarmac linking to the next gravel sector. Fears that I’d been pushing a bit too hard were realized a few Ks later, 15 km shy of Crookwell, where I noticed the first twinges of cramp. I was going to have to be very careful and measured from this point onwards. Once cramp gets you properly you’re on the back seat for the rest of the day.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Crookwell to the rescue (160 km, 25 km/hr average thus far). I kept my stop brief, refilling bottles, going to the loo, oiling the chain, and trying to wolf down a sandwich before rolling off approx 15 min later (~1:03 pm). A few km up the road another rider came into view. Surely not JE? Nope, it was one of the other riders I’d passed earlier on, aboard a 29er hard tail, who evidently pitted way faster, only picking up a coffee milk and a sausage roll. This guy turned out to be Jonny Harrison, who, as one of JE’s antagonists of recent years, is well acquainted with being at the pointy end of affairs, and measuring effort. We had a nice chat as we wound our way through lovely quiet country backroads on a stunning day. Jonny’s intent was to pit at Taralga (210 km). I was hopeful I had sufficient on board (fingers crossed) to get me all the way to from Crookwell to Marulan (a 180 km stretch). I knew I didn't have the horsepower of JE or JH (at least on paper), so for me “just-keep-moving” was the order of the day. At least I’d seen what was in store, which makes negotiation of tough stretches much more bearable.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">A minute of two after 3 pm we hit Taralga (23.3 km/hr average to this point). I turned left, Jonny turned right. There was now the slightest of possibilities, if JE had also pitted, that I might actually be leading a race! This was confirmed once bitumen transitioned back to gravel - a surface lacking tracks appeared before me. So this is what it feels like! With the rest of the field chasing it certainly motivates you to keep moving. According to Jonny, Jason asked how far David was up the track. “Five minutes”, he replied, and bang, Jason switched gear and was off!<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">If the kms kept ticking by there was a good chance I might be able to negotiate the Guineacor horror show in the light - definitely something to keep pressing for. But I was starting to feel the fatigue in the legs, and wasn’t handling the uphill pinches anywhere near as well as when Anita and I did a practice loop of this sector a few weeks prior. I was expecting JE to pass at any time, but it wasn’t until some 60 km after Taralga (after 2.5 hours in the sun), that JE finally corrected the balance of the universe and caught me, slamming his poor bike with skinny tyres past me down a chute of tennis balls and baby heads. “Lucky these wheels are loaners” he quipped. In a minute he was gone, accentuating the chasm of talent that separates the elite guys from the rest. Whilst I walked the bottom half of the descent, Jason later confirmed he rode the entire thing, “but probably shouldn’t have”.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">I filled a bidon at the river, popped in some tablets, sloshed across, then began the very slow plod out. There was still enough heat in the air to generate some sweat, but at least the sun was largely out of play. Once the steepness eased I was still having trouble cleaning the rubble-loaded pinches (walking many of them) before eventually hitting good dirt with the sun now officially down. I hit the Banaby road at 8:15 (~290 km) and did a wardrobe change, donning thermal top, beanie, gloves and knee warmers for the long night ahead. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">I’d been drinking heavily from the treated water I’d taken at the creek, so checked the tank water status at the Banaby church (= empty), so took more water at the bottom of Swallow Tail, just to be safe. The main challenge now was to keep eating even though that time of the race had come where forcing anything down was a chore. I was surprised not to have been caught by Jonny by now and was enjoying moving again at speed, and those new lights are just superb! Spotted five wombats and two echidnas, dozens of rabbits and hares, and even chased a kangaroo at full tilt doing about 30 km/hr for the best part of a minute - it just didn't seem interested in leaving the road. It was something leaping out from the side I was always on the lookout for.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Jonny had given me a tipoff about a good quality toilet block just at the entrance of Marulan (340 km), and sure enough, there it was. I tried to shed some weight, but sometimes the body is just not ready. As I was exiting Jonny finally arrived. Like Jason he’d also ridden the entire Guineacor descent, but paid for it by coming off - not a pleasant thought. I crossed the Hume Hwy to the southbound servo at about 11:20 - a palace of lights, and interesting smells! The kitchen was still open. I ordered a burger and chips, even though I was unsure whether I'd be able to consume much. I just wanted to taste something different, and experience some normality by sitting on something that wasn't a saddle. Jonny came in a few minutes later, purchased some lollies, two drinks and a coffee and was keen to keep pushing. I was impressed he was fresh enough to want to move on so quickly, wished him luck, and that I’d see him at the end. I knew I’d pay for it if I didn't give my body just a little break.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">The burger and chips seemed to be taking their sweet time. Sitting there doing nothing, the approaching names on MAProgress were starting to make me nervous, particularly when positions updated and two names were bearing down - fast. If they were as similarly inclined as Jonny, I was in trouble. What if they arrived with me still there, and sniffed weakness… Not worth the risk. I’d prepared well and worked hard to be in this position, so didn’t want to squander it. The burger and chips finally arrived. I ate half the chips (which in itself was a chore), squashed the rest into my feedbag, took one half-committed bite of the burger, and reluctantly dumped the rest. I’m not a fan of wasting food, but the race got the better of me. Out the door and moving again at about 11:55. On paper this was a long stop (about 35-40 min), but in the moment, when the body is super sore and just moving around the store in a haze takes effort and concentration, it was all too brief. That's the thing about races where the clock never stops.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">As far as standings in the race were concerned I was now running blind again. I knew I was in third, with 160 km to go, but not a comfortable third by any measure. Most important was to keep the wheels turning, only stop to pee if I really had to (despite frequent urgings from the 50 year old bladder), and maintain the drip feed of soggy chips, sugary water and coffee milk. I’d tick the kms off in blocks of 5, and rejoice at every step, be workmanlike on the ups, and enjoy a rest on the downs. Just keep moving, and avoid the marsupials. If I got caught, well, whomever it turned out to be was simply too good. That I could accept. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Negotiating the Covan Creek paddock was interesting in the pitch black, to say the least, and towns I might have resupplied at - Collector and Gundaroo - were in a deep slumber. The 24 hr mark ticked by at Gundaroo with 40 odd km to go. A heavy fog blanketed some of the fields; accentuating that at 6 C maybe I should add another layer. Come on sun! The sky finally lightened revealing patches of fog. Finally the suburbia of Bonner and Gungahlin, and an obstacle course of curving bike paths and connections, accentuating squirm in my rear tyre, which was dangerously lacking pressure. Worried that I might not even have time to put some air into it, or check the tracker, I pushed for the end, finally confident that third was in the bag with only Northbourne Avenue to complete. I passed Anita who gave me a wave and cheer outside our hotel 2 km from the finish. And so at approx. 7:35, an hour and 24 behind Jason (who only just missed going under 24 hrs!), and 33 minutes behind Jonny, it was done (~19.3 km/hr elapsed average). <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5uWjk7tyZylhSQ_IYsRUgY5HTOh2nDN9-mAo6mwzCnl4EfzZkEY-jZLKmfzt8dZ1nOYmyQUkDObusn_Od4679vxDuA4WfM8g4k1ugyOtwl0UISwKowmVUXZ7554ABVU0QhMUr_tMqco8G/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1682" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5uWjk7tyZylhSQ_IYsRUgY5HTOh2nDN9-mAo6mwzCnl4EfzZkEY-jZLKmfzt8dZ1nOYmyQUkDObusn_Od4679vxDuA4WfM8g4k1ugyOtwl0UISwKowmVUXZ7554ABVU0QhMUr_tMqco8G/" width="197" /></a></div></div><br /><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Anita and I could barely believe it, not just coming third in such an iconic event, from what many viewed as a solid field, but having the lead for some of it. I acknowledge I was only there because of pitting strategy, and Jason was always going to reel me in, but it was a thrill nonetheless. Once caught, the puff went out of my sails to some extent, but I can’t blame this all on Jason; the Guineacor sector was similarly responsible. Jonny also clearly had my measure, and deserved his second step. In the end my chasers were just as knackered as I was, so I could have eased off a little, but I wasn't to know. We chatted to Steve Watson, the organizer for a bit then joined him, Jason and Jonny at the adjacent café for a burger I wasn't going to be throwing in the trash. Thanks Steve, for a course that combined some great fast tracks, open fields, beautiful forests, stunning views, and mixed bag of challenges as well. Big thanks to Anita, training partner extraordinaire, always up for an adventure, and responsible for giving me the thrashing on the bike I needed the weekend before, and for doing all the driving going home. If she decides she wants to strap on a tracker, watch out!<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmcyLeoM4kIxdCTa0QiggfdlMnX09n-l-eJ-d63Mk-b6g_S6gH_3jO3o1M0XkVwl5C5Su0CeM-Bdgo-Zqj9OhQ-Ds_tRHCp068B3aihkmRT8HAn10lZmwv_ADQ39gaOaOMyGWzfb4V0o-B/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmcyLeoM4kIxdCTa0QiggfdlMnX09n-l-eJ-d63Mk-b6g_S6gH_3jO3o1M0XkVwl5C5Su0CeM-Bdgo-Zqj9OhQ-Ds_tRHCp068B3aihkmRT8HAn10lZmwv_ADQ39gaOaOMyGWzfb4V0o-B/" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVc0G11lfClt1qv6GzbPTmCrRITJRJNdiBAx96BEYWkxDM5gDCbwa1BjNNDEBzVQRZrpUkW2zKjGv2vxeLWymsHNaOqOzWIoIb-x4ILA7vCdwkTnZi-Tjj-cCsNw4B0NkWAyDW6skDV05C/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVc0G11lfClt1qv6GzbPTmCrRITJRJNdiBAx96BEYWkxDM5gDCbwa1BjNNDEBzVQRZrpUkW2zKjGv2vxeLWymsHNaOqOzWIoIb-x4ILA7vCdwkTnZi-Tjj-cCsNw4B0NkWAyDW6skDV05C/" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 14.666666984558105px;"><br /></span><div><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 14.666666984558105px;">Link for viewing the race as it unfolded shown here;</span></div><div><span style="font-family: American Typewriter;"><span style="font-size: 14.666666984558105px;"><br /></span></span><div>https://cloudrideprologue21.maprogress.com<p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></p></div></div>langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-37123855849003746902019-08-07T14:21:00.002+10:002019-09-19T09:55:48.305+10:00Tour Divide 19 - The final push.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I’d arrived at the fabled Pie Town, but being approx 6:30 pm, presumably after
the Pie shops on the main strip had closed. Hence I went straight to the
Toaster House to see what options for resupply were available. Unlike in
2017, the pantries seemed comparatively bare. But I at least confirmed
that the shower was working. I donned my pack and helmet and cruised back
to the main street (slightly off route), just to see if anything was in fact
open. The few shops all had ‘Closed’ signs in their windows but as I
turned to head off, the owner of the Pie Town Cafe, Brad, ran out and suggested
he could still fix me something in the form of a pulled pork sandwich and as
many sodas and fries as I could handle. I was so grateful! According to
Brad, Beau Troesch, one of the riders I’d been shadowing for days, had left
about an hour prior to my arrival. The sandwich was saucy, spicy and
delightful, and the garlic chips top notch - I ordered a second batch for the
road. Whilst enjoying my meal I realised that the cafe had wifi on tap.
Messages crackled onto my Whatsapp page. It was here that Greg back
home alerted me to the fact that I was two and a half days ahead of my 2017
schedule - bang on for the mid 18-day finish I’d targeted. This can’t have been
right. By my calculation it was 1.5 days, with a 19-day finish more
likely, but the number crunchers back home confirmed the extra day advantage.
My dozy brain had evidently done some miscalculations.<br />
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This realisation changed my thinking somewhat. I’d been stressing about having
Anita, my partner, having to wait days for me at the finish - I’d been mentally
preparing myself for a non-stop 500 km run to the border. Having the extra day
meant I could navigate to the end with far less pressure, suffering, and be
better able to manage dangerous episodes of “the nods” that would no doubt ensue.
Although internally I would have loved a sub-18 finish, I was happy to let that
go. To some extent this was already squandered courtesy of sickness, niggles, heavy
weather through The Basin, and assorted sleep-ins. My position on the
leaderboard seemed safe, with a 6 hr gap back to Alexandera, but you cannot
underestimate the determination of Alexandera, whose resolve impressed me more
than any of the other riders I’d ridden with. So I had some breathing space,
but only a little.<br />
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I thanked Brad for looking after me, settled the ridiculously tiny bill and
headed back to the Toaster House where a shower was in order. I was happy to
take some time as I knew what was coming up. The shower was delightful. I
dressed in my thermals, washed out my knicks, hung them out to dry, then
settled into a lounge on the “porch of shoes” for a nap in the lovely afternoon
warmth, setting my alarm for 90 minutes. I awoke with a start as darkness
was setting in, packed my kit, then at approx 9 pm headed off into the
descending blackness wearing the spare set of knicks I’d not donned till this
point. On the run into Pie Town I’d been experiencing some new undercarriage
issues so was hoping the fresh knicks with different tread pattern might help.
The plan was to ride till 2 or 3 in the morning, knocking off a chunk of
the approach to the demanding Gila section. Fat chance! The desire for sleep
was wearing heavily. I was crawling through a lovely pine forest with
lots of great spots for throwing down the bivvy. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’d had enough of riding past great camps, so
pulled up early, just after midnight, with not even 50 km for the eve, crawled
into my bivvy and marvelled at the constellations above as I slipped into a
deep sleep. The alarm woke me at 4, but I stubbornly refused to move till 4:30,
packed my kit, rolling again just on 5.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The forested area spilled me into an expansive rural valley that I’d follow for
many hours before entering the shallow canyon leading to the Beaverhead Work
Station, a fire-fighting headquarter servicing the upcoming Gila wilderness,
with water and it’s fabled drink machine. Naturally, it wasn’t working
but one of the workers kindly opened it for me, presenting me with one of its
two remaining cans. </span></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Photo Spencer Harding</span></div>
</div>
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<span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #eeeeee;"><br /></span></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">That morning I’d occasionally ridden in
the proximity of Lael Wilcox and crew (Rue and Spencer) who were now touring
the route and collecting footage for their film. We chatted over lunch at
the picnic table. In contrast to me, and despite covering the same terrain,
Lael looked fresh as a daisy. Very classy rider! In contrast I was on my
proverbial knees, creaking and groaning. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lael headed off for the Gila section as I
attended to my nether regions, then sat out a brief downpour before leaving.
Seemed like the monsoon period was happening, with storm clouds brewing
and dumping across the expansive horizon, which was also punctuated with smoke
plumes from numerous wildfires.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #eeeeee;"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /> </span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The Gila section is not to be underestimated, especially in the heat, traversing
everything from gravelly to sandy to rocky roads. Multiple short steep
climbs and descents had to be negotiated - exhausting stuff, and the opposite
of my much preferred tempo climb terrain. Just like the Pondersosa Mesa
section, the Gila is relentlessly winding and disorientating - real torture on
the mind as you don’t feel like you know where you’re going or if progress is
being achieved despite intense exertions. To run salt into the wound,
upon finally cresting the last substantial climb, the descent is so shallow and
paved in heavy gravel that you’ve got to pedal to achieve any sort of speed
downhill. That’s just not fair!</span><br />
<span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #eeeeee;"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br />
</span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #eeeeee;"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg9fz2jszgvTVw0uyGFf2Oh_enw3vYqpJfi3rat9DhjtJ3jFTi-2O2JM7XX79of_Ey3zOy9D6Q6QtJNNrzNLVeQQ5oJl2N5-NHYNfzGaFrE4GjsUiu32jUuvcaoV16Q4p2a7VFzkKvtyU6/s1600/DL_Spencer_Harding.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1083" data-original-width="1600" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg9fz2jszgvTVw0uyGFf2Oh_enw3vYqpJfi3rat9DhjtJ3jFTi-2O2JM7XX79of_Ey3zOy9D6Q6QtJNNrzNLVeQQ5oJl2N5-NHYNfzGaFrE4GjsUiu32jUuvcaoV16Q4p2a7VFzkKvtyU6/s320/DL_Spencer_Harding.png" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> Photo Spencer Harding</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">In fading light I finally gained the short road segment to the last major
obstacle of the route, the CDT walking track. Entry required some steep
hike-a-bike onto a ridgeline before traversing gradually uphill. The sun
was setting as I pushed my bike onto the ridge, with the combination of smoke
and storms providing a spectacular backdrop of red and orange hues. Much of the
singletrack was then rideable, although one had to be wary of the slope,
prickly thorns, and cryptic rocks hiding amongst the tall grass. That said, it
seemed far more rideable, and dare I say enjoyable than two years ago, when I
did it in the heat of the day. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #eeeeee;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The concentration required for navigating
singletrack in the dark made time pass swiftly. I got the sense of being near
the end of the sector when suddenly I felt the full force of my chest impacting
a hard surface. My front wheel had stalled against a rock concealed by
grass resulting in body and bike rotating around it. I lay still for a
while, registering the drizzle and wondering if I’d broken anything. I pushed
the bike off me. I’d actually cracked a rib, but didn’t realise it at the
time. The other point of major contact, my right elbow, was weeping blood
through my sunsleeve. I was hoping it wouldn’t need a stitch, and decided not
to remove the stocking, which was effectively holding everything together. No
alternative but to keep going. Only a km later I gained double track and
then a dirt road which, after another climb and descent (there is always
another climb) had me on blessed tarmac, grinding out the climb to Pinos Altos,
from which a fast descent led to Silver City. <br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Upon entering town major roadworks forced
a trial-and-error wiggle, just to get to the McDonalds, which I hoped was of
the 24hr variety as it was approx 12:30 am. It was! I parked my bike outside
then ordered a burger, fries and their largest vessel of Cola. You’ve no
idea how long I’d been looking forward to this moment. I switched on wifi
and much to my amazement noticed that Ryan Simon and Beau were still in town
just a few blocks away. I’d assumed they would already be headed to the
border to eke out a 17-day finish, achieved if they got there before 8am that
morning. According to trackleaders they’d been idle for 3 hrs. What
was going on? I ordered a second round of burger and chips, got myself
bathroomed, guzzled more coke and planned my next move. I had to assume
they knew I was in town. Moving to a gas station for resupply might
provoke action. Regardless, I was definitely going to push through to
finish this thing. Literally across the road from the gas station/Denny’s
where they were holed up was a Snappy Mart. Not quite knowing how the
next 200 km would play out I just collected my usual resupply items, including
sandwiches, then just before leaving noted that Beau had already departed - 10
minutes ago. The drag race to the line was on! Ryan was an
exceptionally gifted athlete, evident by being so damn fast on a single speed,
but the relatively flat run to the line was unlikely to suit him if not for a
headwind. It was Beau I was worried about. He was riding a very
distinctive Salsa Cutthroat I’d spied at many gas stations - a more road-style
machine than mine, and running slightly faster (narrower) tyres. After a
25km sealed climb out of town we would hit the dirt for a 50km sector, before
reverting to tarmac for the last 125 km. As Beau was a tall athletic chap
I figured that once we hit final tarmac I’d struggle to match his pace.
Any move would have to come on the 50 km of sand preceding it.<br />
<br />
My knees and ankles had been surprisingly well behaved in previous days, with
all the objections now coming from the nether regions. If only I could
keep complaints from the backside to a minimum the legs could perhaps shine.<br />
<br />
I immediately settled into a solid tempo on the long pavement climb up to White
Signal, with the breeze coming across my right shoulder. It’s always hard
to tell the true direction of wind as it swirls around hills and knolls, but if
this breeze were true it would mean a taily was in the offing once I turned
south onto the dirt. Sure enough, a tailwind! What’s more, the surface of
this sandy track was perfect, with a light dry crust courtesy of recent rain
that had just dried out. This meant I could ride hard with confidence in
the aero position.<br />
<br />
After only a few km on the sand I thought I saw something red flicker far ahead
in the inky blackness. I pushed a little harder. More red flashes associated
with a pale white hue, and not fixed but definitely moving. That’s got to
be a bike! A few km pass and I’m slowly closing in. Suddenly a flash of white
light blinks in the distance, presumably a helmet light swivelling to scan the
terrain behind. Now he knows I’m coming! I close fast up a long uphill
drag then realise that Beau has stopped and is waiting for me at the crest of
the hill. In hindsight, Beau was probably expecting Ryan, but got me
instead. I pulled up next to him and we had a brief chat. I
mentioned my over-the-bars adventures on the CDT, and Beau mentioned how
shattered he and Ryan had been after passage through the Gila. Beau also
mentioned the possibility of rain. Enough procrastinating. We’ll
rolled off together and I gradually picked up the pace, noticing Beau’s more
cautious approach to the fast downhill straights and corners. That was my
cue. I wound it up a little more, then a little more, just wanting to
break the elastic. Fast as I dared on the downs, and putting out solid
power on the ups of each roller. Eventually I felt a gap form. All I had
to do was maintain it for another 150 km! The course at this point consisted of
long straights with the occasional corner or adjustment of line. The gap
was growing, evident by being able to complete a straight with no evidence of
chasing lights. I wanted to keep the pace high for two reasons - I’d need
a good gap once we hit bitumen, and there was the odd drop of rain falling.
If the heavens opened then it would become a lottery as to who got
through and in what order.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just like in
17, a dog at full gallop accompanied me for several kilometres through Thorn
Ranch (albeit brown, and not black), dancing just ahead of my front wheel, and
flicking an intermittent stream of sand and grit into my face.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It eventually tired and I suggested it take a
break then pester the guy chasing me.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The sky started to lighten, and a distant light on a stalk indicated the
approach of Separ, the intersection with the freeway, and the start of the last
125 km of bitumen. The sun cracked the horizon as I exited the last of the
rubble and onto the sealed. I had no idea how far back Beau was, but in
all of my previous encounters with him he’d been very efficient and eager to
press forward, so I had to assume the chase was on. I made a brief
concession to stop, take some pics, take a pee, and get some music organised.
</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">So commenced the last 125 km, settled into my aero position, trying to maintain
30 km an hour, all on a diet of snickers bars and Gatorade from my backpack
bladder.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I still had 3 L of water in the
frame bag but with the finish only hours away I probably wouldn't be needing
it. The shadows shortened, coincident with the elevating temperature, and
the minutes ticked by. I’d occasionally break position to scan the road behind,
which was mostly clear, apart from imaginary shapes in the heat shimmer giving
me a gee-up. With 50 km to go I came to the conclusion that Beau was
probably just riding it in, rather than chasing in earnest, but I couldn’t be
sure, so kept the gas on till almost the end.<br />
<br />
The kms ticked down, 40, 30, 20... Geez Anita was cutting it fine. The
thing about the Antelope Wells border crossing, which I know as I’ve done this
thing before, is that there is only the one road in or out. In the last
hours only a few trucks and the odd passenger vehicle had passed - I’m sure
Anita would have slowed and at least given me a wave. 10 km, 5 km, 1
mile, I can see the damn thing now! I’d welled up with tears a few times
over the last few km, knowing the odyssey was almost over, but now here it was.
I approached with two guys cheering me in, neither of which were Anita!
I came to a stop and was embraced by Bobby, then Seth, blubbering a
little over each of them. Both TD vets, they understood what it means to
finish this thing. Bobby and Seth were from Oklahoma, and were there to
pick up Ryan. I couldn’t believe the coincidence as I’d been listening to
the Oklahoma soundtrack (Surrey with a Fringe on Top, of all tracks) as I
rolled to the finish! How crazy is that? We instantly shared some sort of
affinity as we chatted about the race and the impending arrival of Beau and
Ryan, whom I’d been stalking for half the race until sneaking through at the
end.<br />
<br />
Next to arrive, 10 minutes later, was a very sheepish Anita. The ranch
she’d stayed at had power problems that morning so she couldn’t check on
progress, but she did have a text alert from a friend, which she finally noted
(s*#%!), jumped in the car and hoofed it. In her defence, in 2017 it took
me 10 hrs 30 min to ride the 200 km from Silver City to the end. This
time I made the leap in 8 hrs 10 min. According to Strava records (which not
everyone logs, it should be noted), my 6 hr 29 min 170 km run from White Signal
to the end is second to Josh Kato on his winning ride in 2015. It’s amazing
what you can do on two snickers bars, 2 litres of Gatorade, an annoying
haemorrhoid to keep you honest, coupled with a tailwind and the fear of being
run down. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">
Beau, then Ryan eventually finished. “You sneaky bastard” was Ryan’s
immediate comment upon arrival. Yep. My opportunistic run jumped me
two places up the leader board behind Peter Kraft Jn, with whom I crossed paths
many times in 2017. Peter had a terrific ride this year finishing 12th.
Sorry guys, I couldn’t help myself, but that’s racing. My time of 18:02:09 was
close to being a 17 and change finish, which I think I could have achieved had
I not had the giardia issue to deal with, but in this style of event that’s
also racing. If not giardia something else might have eventuated.</span></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Antelope Wells photos Bobby Wintle </span></div>
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<br />
<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It was nice to be able to share some
moments with everyone; riders, partners, followers, at the finish. I think
everyone is tremendously satisfied just making the end, regardless of the fine
details. Both Ryan and Beau were rookies, which in my opinion is a
considerable handicap compared to knowing the course.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ryan was the fastest on SS to finish this
year’s race. The concept of doing the TD on SS still blows my mind. Chapeau to
you both!<br /> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">This TD was more satisfying for me than my 17 run for several reasons. On
reflection, in 17 I really had no idea what I was in for, where I was going, or
how to proceed in such a quest. Consequently I gravitated towards other
riders, particularly at the end of a day, surfing off their collective
experience, and allowing decisions to be made for me. Part of that was the deep-rooted
fear of the unknown, of camping out in a foreign country that contained
mythical beasts like bears and mountain lions. Hence, the survival instinct was
front and foremost, but I’ve no regrets how it played out, and I got to know
some great people along the way. In 19 however, I wanted to be more the
master of my own destiny, and actually enjoyed being on my own for days at a
time, just dancing my own steps and being in tune with how my body was feeling,
rather than having to hurry to match a different agenda. Consequently I
generally rode at a more sedate pace, rode longer into the nights, and didn’t
trash myself as much. I was also far more prepared to walk steep pinches than
strain legs unnecessarily. Overall this allowed me to cover more ground
in a less ragged state. I still had issues with ankles, knees and
backside, but I was better able to troubleshoot on the fly and keep the pedals
turning, mostly. <br />
<br />
A few thank yous. Firstly to Anita for being so supportive of me having
another crack. It means so much to me that you not only said yes, but
were so proactive in helping me be as prepared as possible. It was so lovely
seeing you at the end - the big carrot on the end of the stick, even if this
was fractionally mis-timed. It was lovely hobbling ‘round watching
hummingbirds in the aftermath. Secondly to the rest of the gang back home focusing
an eye on my dot and keeping intermittent correspondence humorous and upbeat -
and for the great poetry! It made me feel you were part of the journey too - I
hope this was also reciprocated to some extent from your perspective. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And lastly, to the other riders, especially
the rookies, who inspired me on many occasions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In moments of hardship, uncertainty or doubt I’d reflect on them and
marvel at their grit and resolve, and remind myself that I was that person once
before, and could be so again if I put my mind to it.<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span>
<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I’m
very happy with my TD19 result, to the extent that maybe I’m now cured,
although I know full well how this event gets its hooks into you, sometimes
without you even realising. After all, for anyone with a masochistic bent who’s
into bicycles, it’s one of the grandest adventures there is. Time will
tell.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">On the mend at Squaw Valley, CA.</span><style>
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-15653628559533389172019-07-25T18:01:00.000+10:002019-09-19T09:37:38.937+10:00Tour Divide 19 - Stuck in the middle<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I slept in that morning in Pinedale with a
complete lack of urgency. My whole race mindset was unravelling. What the
heck I was going to do now? I nibbled on a bagel at the hotel buffet
breakfast but felt particularly out of place - the crippled dirtbag in a sea of
clean functional people - so gave up and crossed the street to a drug store and
bought two rolls of KT tape as well as a clunky pair of scissors. I spent 45
min fashioning knee support for both knees, repeating one knee a few times to
get the tension right (or what I thought was right). Nothing else to do
but go back to the gas station where I gazed mindlessly at the huge variety of
items available and marvelled at the efficiency of other riders dealing with
breakfast and resupply at the adjoining Subway.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These guys had experienced a far less
comfortable night than I, somewhere up on Union Pass.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mentally I was stalled. I eventually managed
to find the usual resupply items and forced more breakfast down. It was close
to 9:30 by the time I eventually headed out of Pinedale into a disappointing
headwind. What a shocker!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">At least the combination of rest, Advil, raised saddle and taping seemed to be
easing the left knee discomfort. Maybe I’d be OK after all. I
missed the turn at Boulder, but realised fairly quickly and only botched a few
minutes. My perception that I was dealing with unfavourable winds was
confirmed on a stretch that when touring, in 18, had us cruising at 50 km/hr
without pedaling. In contrast I had to pedal to do 30 km/hr.
However the headwind wasn’t my only problem that morning. A few hours in
I had the rumbling in my guts indicating that I’d consumed something that disagreed
with me. I couldn’t think of what it could be, but was certain of the
necessity to get rid of it, so pulled over. A couple of hours later I had
a repeat performance. Usually one or two ‘sittings’ would be sufficient
to get back to normal, but not this time. I needed to go again.
Surely that was done with, but alas no. I held on till South Pass
then Atlantic City. Three bikes were parked outside the Mercantile
(belonging to Les, Beau Troesch (Colorado) and Ryan Simons (Oklahoma)) but it
looked super busy so I went round the corner to the Miner’s Grubsteak, where I
was immediately greeted by Laurel who took my order whilst I shuffled off to
the bathroom. I ate next to a walker whose name I forget (trail name Pack
Rat). We discussed the various speeds of walking and riding the route,
finding water in the Basin, and of sickness on the trail. Pack Rat had
experienced the vomiting and diarrhoea associated with giardia, and I started
to wonder whether my trips to the bathroom might be more than having consumed a
bad peach, so to speak. Might they relate to the water I took on that first day
in Canada? The gestation period was about right. Bugger! I made another
deposit before settling the bill, thanking Laurel, and heading out to find Les
had just set off up the hill.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The climb out of Atlantic City is a steep one. I caught Les just as the plateau
was gained, and we marvelled at a thunderhead sliding across the landscape in
front of us. For a while it looked like we’d thread the needle between storm
systems. But as darkness fell, and I had to stop yet again, light rain, then
snow started falling. It was going to be a chilly uncomfortable trudge
through The Basin. Whilst The Basin is largely gentle undulations, there are also dramatic creases
in the landscape involving a pinch climb to regain the plateau. These folds
also tend to hold more moisture and it was on one of these that the wheels
suddenly locked to a halt, jammed up with the infamous peanut butter mud. I
cleaned the clay off wheels, drivetrain and cleats (by banging shoes together
with extreme violence) as best as I could, then just managed to get going again
before the whole thing repeated a few km down the track, and again a little
while further. Energy sapping stuff, not to mention swallowing precious
time. My previous dream runs through The Basin (cross-tailwinds in dry
conditions) were experiencing a correction.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br />
Given that rain had the potential to ruin the track further, I decided that if
I could push on through the night while the track was still mostly rideable it
would be worth the stretch. The rain might stop, or persist the following
day. This would mean tackling the Wamsutter alternate double track in the dark
which at times barely registers as a track at all, but I’d done it before so
was confident I’d be OK. Light drizzle was falling as I passed a tent I
assumed to belong to Les, on the rocky entrance to the double track. The
ground was getting increasingly sticky but the stony and vegetated nature of
the trail at this point prevented the tires from picking up too much junk,
although my cleats would repeatedly get clagged when dealing with nature
breaks. Traversing this old layer of strata in the middle of The Basin is one
of the highlights of the entire route, and I was sorry not to be experiencing
the amazing views, but grateful to be making progress in deteriorating
conditions.<br />
<br />
I finally exited the double track section onto the main road and enjoyed being
able to make the tires hum, maintaining enough speed to escape boggy sectors.
I was starting to make good time again and get the sense that my
persistence had paid off when all of a sudden the tires were picking up
particulate and spraying it off the front wheel in front of me like a Catherine
Wheel, the spray getting heavier and heavier as I pushed harder and harder till
eventually momentum slowed to an inevitable stop. The shine of my head light
indicated I was stuck in a sea of morass, of similar texture for and aft as far
as I could make out. I got off the bike and tried in vain to shift it, my
shoes each now with a brick of cement attached under foot. I wasnt going
anywhere as the drizzle intensified. I was literally stuck in the mud. I
could see that conditions off the track were softer and even worse. No
amount of cleaning was going to remedy the situation. It was about 2:30
am, I pulled my bivvy from the handlebar roll and dropped it right there in the
middle of the sludge. At least I could be confident that no other bike nor
vehicle could possibly reach me. <br />
<br />
(Day 9, 219 km and 2018 m vert)</span></div>
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<br />
I’d set my alarm for 4:30 and awoke to more drizzle, then drifted off again.
I awoke a few hours later to a cold overcast morning and assessed the
situation. About 300 m ahead I could see the track subtly changed colour. With
all of my strength I hauled my rig and, over three 100 m efforts, gained the
different colour track, which mercifully was of harder texture. I spent
another 30 min retrieving my kit and packing it, carving off the mud, oiling
the chain, de-gunking my shoes and cleats and getting everything ready for
takeoff. I whooped with delight as I finally got rolling again. YES!<br />
</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br />
I was off again, enjoying the morning despite it being overcast, cold, and
having to stop for another couple of tedious nature breaks. At one point
I looked back and was surprised to see Les cruising towards me. I asked him
if he’d had any mud issues. Nope. I couldn’t believe it. How was
this possible? Surface conditions were obviously very fickle and in constant
flux, preventing passage at one moment in time only to permit it 30 minutes
later. The sun finally came out, and a few wardrobe changes later I was
feeling good despite having to share the track with a periodic passage of
trucks, forcing one onto the softer shoulders. Most of the drivers were
pretty courteous and exchanged waves. <br /> </span><br />
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<br />
<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I finally arrived at the Loves gas station at Wamsutter and disgorged the muddy
contents of my front roll and rooster tail, decorating a wall of bug cleaner
with my soggy bivvy and sleeping kit - basking in the sun. Strangely enough I could account
for everything apart from my gortex overpants. I couldn’t believe I’d
been so careless as to leave them somewhere in The Basin during one of my
wardrobe changes. Dammit again! Those 3/4 pants were invaluable in
keeping me warm on night-time pushes. Bugger! I’d have to pick up
something similar in Steamboat to compensate. Les, then Beau and Ryan
also arrived, having had a seemingly kinder passage through the Basin than I
had. None had seen a set of overpants lying on the trail.<br />
<br />
In any case I refuelled, went to the loo a few times, loaded up on food and
headed out, only to have to make a another pit stop shortly after leaving.
This constant stopping was getting increasingly frustrating and wasn’t
pleasant, to say the least. What a mess. At least I wasn’t experiencing
any nausea which is sometime also associated with giardia, or whatever
intestinal parasite I was dealing with. I really had no choice but to
keep going and seek medical help in Steamboat, a day and half away. First
I had to get out of The Basin.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br />
Les, Ryan, Beau and I all sort of coalesced on the final steeper pinches of The
Basin near the Colorado foothills, the surface of which was becoming
increasingly heavy. Before we knew it the track was once again unrideable.
It took us an hour or so to cover the final couple of Km before the track
levelled out, before descending to the massive rollers that immediately precede
Savery. The descent itself was also a mess, as though the track had been
drowned by the contents of the Dillon reservoir then pulverised by 1000 cattle
marching up and down for good measure. Much of this we negotiated by weaving
our way through the thick shrubs off the side of the trench. I finally
made it to Savery in the late afternoon, absolutely exhausted from the efforts
and my state of dysentery. It was a great surprise to see Kirra Dyer
here, who’d unfortunately had to scratch but was now touring the route in a
van, catching up with and encouraging riders. Such a positive thing to do amidst
what must have been very disappointing TD experience. Class act!<br />
<br />
I needed a bit of cheering up as I wasn’t in very good shape. Whilst my left
knee had improved markedly in response to taping and raising the saddle, my
right achilles was now protesting loudly. If it wasn’t one thing it was
another. I just couldn’t seem to keep everyone (my joints and guts) happy, and
this was affecting my mental state.<br />
<br />
After chatting with Kirra for 10 min or so I was most surprised to see Peter
Kraft Jn cruise up to us, looking fresh as a daisy. He’d jumped across
from Atlantic City all in the one day, apparently able to ride most of what
we’d just pushed through, such were the vagaries of the track. I sat on
the curb to re-tape my ankles and knee before commencing the slow grind up
Kirsten’s driveway to Brush Mountain Lodge. Of the five of us who
basically left Savery together, I was the last to pull into Brush Mountain
Lodge, an hour later than the others, around midnight, courtesy of another
three nature breaks. To say I wasn’t having a good time is an
understatement.<br />
<br />
Kirsten was a bit preoccupied when I arrived, but there was pizza on tap, and a
few of us sat round the table discussing the day’s events. Sleeping bodies
were scattered all over the floor. The weather we’d caught in the Basin was
associated with a cold front that had dumped a huge amount of snow and then
rain in northern Colorado, to the extent that Sand Mountain, the pass just
south of Brush Mountain Lodge was essentially cut off. Only four of the
front runners got through in heavy conditions, whilst following rain and
associated mud repelled further passage, resulting in a bit of a log jam in the lodge, which now housed about 20 riders and two film crews. We
were hopeful to make it over the pass the next day, but there was an air of
uncertainty as to whether this would eventuate. I relayed to Anita I was
having massive gastric issues, to which she was actually relieved. My progress
had been so slow she’d concluded my knee was only deteriorating.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She’d prepared to have the “Dave, I think you
should scratch”, conversation. I found a place on the floor and swiftly
fell asleep without setting an alarm.<br />
<br />
(Day 10, 208 km and 1653 m vert)<br />
<br />
I was accustomed to wake at around 4 am, and this time was no exception, but
there was no urgency either, so I drifted back to sleep. I eventually got
up a few hours later and enjoyed a typical Brush Mountain Lodge breakfast
chatting with other riders. Some of the early front runners
were still present, including the Euros Kim and Kai, Josh Ibbett, Evan
Deutsch, Lael Wilcox and Sofiane Sehili himself. Sofiane had been on track to
perhaps beat Mike Hall’s record up until he was turned back by snow. He had
decided to scratch, but did so with the confidence of knowing that besting the
record was indeed possible, and vowed to come back next year and give it
another shake. A few of the riders were unsure as to what capacity they’d
continue racing once they got over the pass, given the time they’d lost.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Nico and I having a rare bad hair morning (Photo Spencer Harding)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br />
As you can imagine my clothes were in a dreadful state, especially my knicks,
so I got them laundered. I was one of the last riders to leave, kicking off
about 11am and carrying the biggest toilet roll I could muster. Steamboat
would be as far as I was going that day. What I hadn’t appreciated
though, was just how long it would take to trudge through several Km of snow
down the other side of the Sand Mountain Divide, coupled with lots of nature
breaks en route. At about 5 pm I finally dragged my sorry arse into the
Orange Peel bikeshop and asked about where to seek medical help. They
pointed me towards the other end of town where I signed a bunch of forms,
and eventually got seen by a GP. The doc explained that i may have giardia,
or it might be some other parasite, but taking anti-giardia medication would
complicate diagnosis further down the track, should the medication not work.
The doc was happy to write me a prescription and I agreed to provide a stool
sample - like that was going to be a problem - the only hitch being that the
medical centre’s courier had finished for the day. Fortunately I could
transport the sample up the road to the Hospital and deliver it to the lab
directly, ensuring that the time sensitive test wasn’t compromised. So I
did my business in the container provided, jumped on the bike and rode it up
the hill to the local hospital lab. All good.<br />
<br />
I returned to the nearby Safeway where the prescription was processed, and had
a nice chat to the friendly chap behind the counter who had guessed I was a TD
rider given my attire. I picked up a few other items and rode back to
Orange Peel for overpants/legwarmers and dry lube, only to discover that it
had just closed. Major bummer! Now I’d have to wait for it to open
in the morning. If only I’d left Brush Mountain Lodge an hour earlier.<br />
<br />
I got a room at the Nordic Hotel, and jumped in the bath - my second of the
trip. So good! My mood soured though when I realised I’d mislaid
the giardia medication. Was it
possible I hadn’t actually bagged it at the Safeway? I grabbed
my phone and found the number for the pharmacy. The fellow who
served me confirmed that yes, I’d walked off without the drugs. But he’d already
worked out where I was staying courtesy of the spot tracker, and would drop
them by in 15 minutes as his shift had just finished. Wow! I’d had
more than I bargained for already over the last few days, and it was lovely for
a little magic to break in my direction. I thanked him profusely when he
dropped them round, popped a tablet down and wandered to the local bar for a steak, chips and a beer. Boy did that meal go down well! Maybe the
Tour Divide wanted me to continue after all.<br />
<br />
(Day 11, a pitiful 89 km with only 75 en route, and 1077 m vert)<br />
<br />
I slept well and was ready at 6 for the hotel breakfast, popped another pill
and was feeling much better. Even the left knee was feeling rejuvenated. In
order to lessen strain on the right achilles I fashioned an insert out of
cardboard and tape to raise my heel (thanks Wendy!). I then counted down
the minutes till Wheels Bike Shop on Yampa Avenue opened at 8:30. I
picked up dry lube and the last set of knee warmers they had and was rolling by
8:45. <br />
<br />
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<br />
<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">After a flying first week, during the mid section of the race I’d accrued a
series of mis-steps, bad luck and unnecessary delays; knee issues, late start
in Pinedale, mud in the Basin, achilles issues, three days of Giardia, late
start in Brush Mountain Lodge, losing half a day in Steamboat, and now another
delayed start. Mentally I’d given up on the 18 day finish as a possibility.
All that good work whittled away. I was now going to have to work
hard just to get a 19 day finish, and this was an uncertain outcome given the
fragility of my joints and unknown state of my guts going forward. I was now
back to only hours ahead of my 2017 schedule (21 days), or so I figured (I was still
actually a day ahead, but I’d seemingly lost so much time my muddled mind
couldn’t see it).<br />
<br /> </span><br />
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<br />
<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Despite the late start this turned out to be one of my best days, thankfully
with only a couple of nature breaks to interrupt the flow. What a relief!
Seemed like the anti-giardia drugs were doing the trick. I got over
Lynx Pass, the three rough and tumble minor passes that follow it, the two big
semi-sealed rollers out of Radium in the heat of the day, Ute Pass into Silverthorne
at dusk, and the gradual climb up to Breckenridge where I crawled into after
midnight. I thought of pushing on over Boreas Pass but didn’t want to tackle
what was sure to be more snow and a soggy Gold Dust Trail in the dark, so i pulled up stumps
and stealth bivvied by a park bench outside what turned out to be the local
correctional centre, which amused followers back home.<br />
<br />
(Day 12, 246 km and 3401 m vert)<br />
<br />
I was back onto the Boreas Climb Pass only a few hours later and tackled
the Gold Dust Trail in the early light, sections of which were more like a
swamp. I picked up a stick in my drivetrain which I could only extract by
removing the rear derailleur, but otherwise got through without incident.
I cruised past Como to hit headwinds all the way to Hartsel, with the few
freeway kms leading into town being the most nerve wracking traffic-wise of the route thus far. I enjoyed a terrific breakfast in Hartsel, joined midway
by Les, Mr Efficiency, who was in and out before I finished. Rob Goldie
(another from England) turned up as I rolled out. The sector from Hartsel
to Salida, across the open grassed fields of South Park into a block headwind,
was one of the most dispiriting transitions of the entire route. I deliberately
didn’t push too hard but was still pretty shattered when I descended into
Salida. I bypassed the town and headed straight to Poncha Springs where I
feasted on an ice cream sandwich, Coke, chips and coffee milk, legs
outstretched on the pavement, before stocking up for the next leg over Marshall
Pass.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">In 17 the Marshall Pass road was a little rough, to the extent I picked up a
sidewalk puncture. None of that this time though, it was beautifully
groomed from bottom to top, and on the descent as well. I was able to get into
a nice rhythm, all my joints were miraculously happy, and I set a nice pace up
and over. I slopped my way through the cutting at the top and descended
under the lights to Sargents, then along the sealed road where I got pulled
over by a highway policeman, informing me that I had no rear light. It
was working fine on the Marshall Pass descent but I guess had simply run out of
juice. I thanked him, he wished me well, and I soon turned back onto dirt
and the gradual climb towards Cochetopa Pass. I didn’t quite make the
reservoir or ride as late as I’d planned, but it was a good day, none the less,
despite the South Park headwind.<br />
<br />
(Day 13, 257km and 2892m vert)</span><br />
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</span><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: 11pt;">Photo credit Eddie Clarke</span></div>
</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">
Another early start in chilly conditions soon had me on the lower slopes of the
lovely Cochetopa Pass, which, along with Marshall Pass, were my favourites of
the entire route. There is a beautiful little campsite, shrouded in mid size
Aspens at the top, where I’d love to camp one day. Damn this race!
The pass also marks an interesting transition between rolling green hills
on one side, and drier cliff-lined rock-scape on the other. Very pretty.
Next pass on the list was Carnero. I wasn’t on the lower slopes
long when I turned a corner into a cacophony of noise, cow pats, odours,
crawling vehicles and mosquitoes. About 6 men on horseback marshalled the
tail end of a cattle drive. There was no way I was getting through. I
sidled up to the truck pulling a horse float and had a conversation with the boss.
“I guess there’s no chance of me jumping through any time soon”.
She was very friendly and suggested I cruise along next to the forestry
truck just ahead, and if the cattle deviated off the track when the gorge
opened up in a few miles, then I’d be welcome to go through with the truck.
The horsemen at the back were constantly breaking line and jumping into
thick scrub to correct wayward beasts. I was amazed by the steep terrain
a horse could punch up and down. I reminded myself that whilst I was
theoretically on holidays, these guys and gals were all working for their
living. The forestry worker and I enjoyed a chat, which helped pass
the time as I swatted mosquitoes. He had spent time in Darwin, of all places.
True enough, after about 30 minutes the steepness of the track eased into a
wide corner, and the lead cattle meandered off the road with the rest following
for a section of pasture. The forestry vehicle and I slipped past and
were on our way again. <br />
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<br />
<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The gorge that follows Carnero Pass, with its tall cliff lined walls, is one of the most
picturesque of the TD route and was cruised with tailwind assist, although I
knew I’d eventually have to do a U-turn and head back into the wind through open landscape to Del Norte. I made the short detour to El Rito,
hopeful of a Coke, but the store was no more. A solar well and spigot shortly
afterwards also proved to be dry. It was a long hot headwind grind into
the majesty of the Rio Grande wilderness with its impressive bluffs and
features. Double track then led through sandy then rocky terrain where I
was careful to avoid sidewall cuts before descending towards Del Norte, wending
round the airport on some awful gravel, and hitting the corner gas station for
resupply. Alexandera arrived as I was headed out. As I’ve said
before, she is one tough lady and I knew if I relaxed she’d be leaving me
behind again. I was hoping to gain Platoro come the end of the day, but
deep down knew this wouldn’t be a given, with Indiana Pass to contend with.
In 17 I did Indiana in the heat of the day. This time it was late
afternoon when I started, and although considerably cooler, it didn’t detract
from the fact that this pass is steep and nasty for a very long time. The hardest
rideable pass of the route, in my opinion. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Evening fell and I still wasn’t at
the top. I finally gained what seemed the summit, marked by cuttings through
some impressive snow drifts. There is quite an undulating plateau that
follows, punctuated at many points by slabs of snow I’d have to trudge through.
It became clear I wasn’t going to make Platoro before well after midnight when
everything was sure to be closed, but I knew there was a Hilton in the Stunner
Valley camp ground, just short of Platoro, so aimed for that, threw down my bag
down inside it and set my alarm. Lights out.<br />
<br />
(Day 14, 215km and 3082 m vert)<br />
<br />
Another morning broke as I climbed over the small pass leading to Platoro.
As I rolled into town I was met with a very strange sight, another rider
waiting for me with arms outstretched, but I couldn’t figure out who on earth
it was. Then the penny dropped - it was Miro, whom I’d finished the last
days of TD17 with, and with whom I’d struck up a rather instantaneous
connection despite our very different backgrounds; Miro originating from
Slovakia before settling in Alabama, and more recently Albuquerque in New
Mexico, and myself from Australia. What on earth was he doing here?
Turns out he’d learnt of my participation in this years race and wanted
to catch up and ride with me for a few days as he toured some of the route,
with his eye set on racing again in 2020 as a 64 year old.</span><br />
<span style="color: #eeeeee;"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #eeeeee;"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The irrepressible Miro</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br />
Whilst it was a lovely surprise seeing him again, the rules concerning
visitation during the Tour Divide are quite strict (it is a firm no no) as
exemplified by the internet sh*tstorm that surrounded Lael Wilcox’s
participation this year and plans to film her record attempt. I’m not sure
Miro, with his classic european/bohemian perspective appreciated this. I
explained that he wasn’t allowed to help me in any way, and that even riding
with me would be frowned upon. Visitation issues were not something I’d
even contemplated, coming from Australia. I’d worked too hard in the lead
up, not to mention suffered so much thus far to be DQ’d over something I’d
played no part in planning. But I could also appreciate that Miro had ridden
for two days on his loaded bike to meet me. We chatted descending to Horca
where I resupplied at the little shop on the left, and he explained that he’d
ride with me to the top of the upcoming sealed La Manga Pass. But where
I’d turn left onto the dirt and the approach to the Brazos Ridge sector, he’d
continue on the sealed road, and maybe we’d meet again in Abiquiu on his
touring loop home. Seemed like a reasonable compromise. At the junction
we wished each other well and I ventured into what turned out to be a
particularly tough day. Although the Brazos terrain with its sparse
stunted trees, rocky trails and brown grass hues and undulations increasingly
reminded me of country NSW back home, the heat and the headwinds gradually wore
me down, forcing a few stops just to down sandwiches. My water situation
was also of concern, especially as the section via Hopewell Lake would be new
to me, having skipped this section due to fires in 17. The reroute on that
occasion included the fabulous Chilli Line Depot for resupply. The climb
up to the Hopewell Lake was a killer in the afternoon heat, although a
thunderstorm was brewing. Having made the campground none of the water spigots
were functioning. I figured I’d just have enough to tide me over without having
to drop down to the lake itself so pushed on, only to later take water from a
steam on the run into Canon Plaza, which I passed through in fading light, hitting
Vallecitos and it’s wolfpack of miniature hounds in the dark. Woof, woof, yap yap yap!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I still figured I might make Abiquiu, up until commencement of the very soft
and muddy ascent of the climb separating Vallecitos and El Rito, courtesy of
the late afternoon storms that I’d somehow missed. Cursed mud! It was
late, I was super tired and didn’t want to go through more episodes of the
whole wheel cleaning business in the dark, let alone having to bivvy on the
track again. My nerves and muscles were fraying with the exhaustive effort to
carry enough speed through sticky sectors so as not to have to stop, the climb
going on and on. I was on the verge of losing the fight. I cranked up the volume of the album I happened to be
listening to, Let it Bleed, by the Stones, which kept me focussed - or was it distracted? Somehow I attained the top of the climb, albeit at a snails
pace, thoroughly empty, thanked the Stones and gave a “Whoop” of relief,
knowing that I should at least make El Rito at around midnight where I had a
bivvy spot in mind, the same one I used in 17.<br />
<br />
(Day 15, 216 km and 3168 m vert)<br />
<br />
Once again, up at 4, and rolling at 4:30 down the quiet sealed stretch to
Abiquiu so as to be at the Bode’s store when it opened. What I hadn’t
realised was that, being a Saturday, the store didn’t open till 7, so I could
have gained an extra hours sleep had I known. Bode’s is one of the best
resupply stores on the entire route, and I wasn’t the only one eagerly waiting
for it to open. Ryan, Beau and Miro had all arrived the previous night
and were also ready and waiting.<br />
</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br />
Ryan and Beau efficiently grabbed what they needed and rolled out. I’d
had a torrid time the previous day so took my time, enjoying several freshly
made breakfast burritos, well aware of the difficulty of the Pondevera Mesa
segment linking Abiquiu and Cuba that awaited. Miro was also intent on
riding this section on his loop home although would turn off before Cuba on his
route back to Albuquerque.<br />
<br />
Another touring rider, Chris, also testing his kit in preparation for TD20,
joined us over the top of the main climb of slabs and sand, just as the heavens
opened, the temperature plummeted and the track deteriorated ever so closely to
bogging wheels. Fortunately the winding undulations moved us away from
the weather system, and the track started to dry as we dealt with numerous
rough downs and ups. Classic New Mexican terrain. Chris was riding
all this with aplomb, and had an interesting light-weight solar electronics
system keeping his cache battery charged - something to consider in the future.
We eventually hit the paved road. Miro and I said our goodbyes.
Miro went one way, Chris and I went the other, descending the fast run
into Cuba through a heavy rainstorm. I’d been needing a shower for some
time but that’s not what I had in mind.<br />
<br />
Chris aimed for a hotel whilst I pulled into the gas station with adjoining
Maccas, just as Beau was finishing up, suggesting he’d try to make Grants that
night. Smart move, knocking this long paved sector over in the cool of
the evening when the prevailing winds, typically from the south in this part of
the world, were subdued or silent. I would aim to do likewise although
wasn’t aiming to quite make Grants. According to Trackleaders, Ryan was
already well on his way on this sector. <br />
<br />
I also finally managed to download some emails, including one from the doc back
in Steamboat, who confirmed the test was positive for giardia, which I figured
anyway as the pills seemed to be working their magic. I’m still unsure
how I contracted it in the first place - I’d been so careful taking water in
Canada that first day, but the TD is hardly a clean endeavour, and there were
many other situations where hygiene could be compromised. In any case I
was relieved that chapter of my race was done with.<br />
<br />
I took my time, feeding well, loading up and headed out as the light dimmed,
with storms behind me and ahead of me. Not so critical on a sealed road, but
nice to get through dry regardless. The stars eventually revealed
themselves, punctuating the inky blackness above. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br />
The odd vehicle would pass, always at speed but well on the other side of the
road, with plenty of forewarning - headlights flagging approach from miles away. All good until one particular vehicle sidled past
at a much slower speed. Much to my surprise it partially pulled off the
road a kilometre ahead. I wondered if there was a problem as I
approached, then realised the occupants were making out as I quickly averted my
gaze/headlamp, embarrassed to have been so intrusive. Five minutes later
the car passed again, and once more pulled over half a K up the road. I thought
nothing of it as I rolled by until I heard a women yell “HELP ME”. Not
what I was expecting. A few seconds later the horn started sounding erratically.
I pulled to a stop, maybe 50 m past the vehicle, under the intense glare
of the headlights yet otherwise in a sea of blackness. I motioned to roll
forward when the horn sounded again and I heard another yell come from the car.
I froze. What was I to do? There was clearly someone in
trouble but I hardly felt I was in a position of power. I sat astride my
bike, confused and fearful of various scenarios. I had no idea who was in
the car, presumably at least two people, one being the woman in distress.
I felt a compulsion to at least try to help, but was acutely aware of my
status as a tired man in lycra, on a bicycle, in the middle of nowhere, presumably
without phone reception. A stranger in a strange land. Were the occupants
high or under the influence? Was there a gun in the car? All three? Would I get
run down if I rode on or bore witness?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Would I get shot in the face if I approached? Damn all that television
I’d watched, and where was the bear spray when I needed it? It was back in the
hotel in Pinedale where I’d deliberately left it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In almost two Tours Divide I’ve never felt so
vulnerable. A paralysis gripped me for a few minutes under the intense
headlights, my brain churning through scenarios. I finally turned my bars,
clipped in, and gingerly rolled back towards the car, my dynamo finally kicking
in to provide a blast of light to complement my headlight, if only briefly.
I approached the driver’s window where the woman was in tears. Leaning partially
across her was an inebriated male of small build whose eyelids were so heavy he
looked on the verge of passing out. A strong smell of alcohol wafted through
the window. He was extremely apologetic, as though pleading for
forgiveness, perhaps confusing me with an officer of the law, which sounds
ridiculous, but maybe it’s plausible given the swathes of reflective tape
across my BBD frame bags, spokes, ankle bracelets, sleeves, back of my helmet,
and red flashing tail-light that he might have been fixated on before I
about-faced and approached the car. With my head torch glaring in their
faces I used my sternest voice and instructed them to be kind to each other, go
home and sleep it off. The male nodded profusely in agreement - seemingly unfazed
by this instruction coming wrapped in an Australian accent. I didn’t know what
else to say or do so gently clipped back into my cleats and slowly rode off
into the darkness. Five minutes later the car sidled past again, then 10
minutes later returned in the opposite direction, and that was the last I saw
if it, or any vehicle for some time as I left the reservation and the
nerve-wracking experience behind me and headed into land dominated by evidence
of mines. Emotionally drained I didn't get too much further that night and
pulled off the road to throw down camp, but at least the bulk of the sealed
sector was done with and I was blissfully alone again. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> <span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br />
(Day 16, 275 km and 2966 m vert)</span></span></div>
</div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br />
<br />
I awoke in the pre-dawn, packed and got moving as the sun stretched its fingers
across the landscape.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With the sun up
the prevailing southerly wind kicked in almost immediately, leaving me
regretful I hadn’t pushed a bit further the night prior before calling it.
In Milan I had some great breakfast burritos at Blake’s Lotaburger, then
resupplied before pushing into hot headwinds with impressive rock walls on my
left before the left hand turn back onto dirt for the long corrugated run into
Pie Town on an otherwise, and thankfully, non-eventful day, headwinds
aside.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pie Town is significant for
several reasons.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Firstly it marks 500 km
to the finish. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Secondly, it is the last
possibility for resupply for the following 300 km to Silver City.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But it’s a quirky little town, graced by a
handful of little shops that serve food (and pie), but their hours are quite
limited.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Naturally I got there in the
late afternoon after the pie shops had closed. But at least the end was in
sight.<br />
<br />
(Day 17, 182 km and 1113 m vert)</span><br />
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-70049308753502512692019-07-18T13:05:00.003+10:002019-08-06T11:16:17.267+10:00Tour Divide 2019 - A flying start<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Naturally, after a week of perfect weather, the forecast for the second Friday of June for Banff was for rain. And it certainly rained during the night, but the morning greeted the Tour Divide field with clearing skies and optimism that the clouds might be kept at bay, at least for a little while. In any case the tracks around Banff itself were way drier than in 17, so things were looking up.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Crazy Larry marshalled the field, photos were taken, and old acquaintances reacquainted (Peter Kraft Jr and I wished each other well and I finally bumped into Nic Brown and family). Finally, after all the preparation and planning, the simplicity of pedalling, eating and sleeping would commence. Rather than start at the back of the conga line, as in 17, I and a few other riders made our way to the trailhead a few minutes early to avoid being caught up in the chaos that would shortly come from the Y. We sat there counting down the clock. All of a sudden I realised that 8 am had already ticked over. A few others and I were off, shortly followed by the rush of the main field, the more eager ones filtering through swiftly.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">The track was in great condition, the sky still clear, and I was thrilled at the realization that once again, I was on the Tour Divide. Narrow corridors lined by dark dense coniferous walls funnelled us through a maze of straights and corners, revealing glimpses of the bombastic surrounding peaks. Magical stuff. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Kim Raeymaekers</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Once the Spray Lake Reservoir was attained, unlike in 17, when we turned right, we turned left and worked our way round the eastern side of the lake, initially on pleasant single track, then gravel road, with the splendor of neighboring peaks and valleys more easily appreciated. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Nic Brown</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> Dylan Morton and Lael Wilcox</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">A major section of muscular but groomed single track followed, again not present in 17. After about 10 km of this we finally hit the short sealed section leading to the Boulton Trading Post, which I skipped, believing that I was carrying sufficient water for the day. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">The boggy powerline climb up Elk Pass was next. The views descending the other side are simply stunning, and I was keen to get a few snaps on the fly. Unfortunately, the heavy and slimy nature of the track caught me out whilst taking pictures; the front wheel squirrelled then stuck, and before I knew it I was high-sided over the bars. Foolish foolish foolish! Fortunately, the landing was pretty soft, but it was a valuable lesson early in the piece. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">The expanse of slop that impeded progress towards Elkford in 17 was in reasonable condition and I was making good time. The turnoff to Koko approached - about two hours earlier than in 17. Terrific! Although the Koko climb was dry as a bone this year, it was still intensely physical. Imagine doing a solid 10 hours on the bike, then playing rugby for two hours, before having to ride again - that’s the sort of battering to expect. About half way up some walkers informed me I was the 14th rider they’d seen. I was surprised to be so near the front, but then again, my plan had always been to have a solid first day such that making Fernie (at approx 260 km) was possible. The top eventually came, and I was conservative with some of the steep narrow shoots on the other side. I passed one of the favourites, Kim Raeymaekers, who’d come a cropper in one of these and snapped his seat post. Fortunately the break-point could still be inserted into the seat tube collar, allowing him to attain Fernie, albeit riding in a considerably stunted bike position.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">What I hadn’t counted on was just how hot the day would be. We’d had the odd very light shower and some cloud cover, but the day had predominantly been warm. Once on the Bull Valley logging trail a nearby rider, Tony Laseur (from NZ), stopped to filter water. This was myself and Kim’s cue to do likewise with a further 70 km to cover. I collected 2 litres, added a double dose of purification tablets for good measure, gave the bag a shake, and noted the time, giving it 40 min over the 30 recommended before drinking heavily to satiate what had become a serious thirst as light faded. The climb out of the Bull valley was harder than I recalled (probably as in 17 I’d tackled it in the morning), but soon I was descending under lights into Fernie, getting there just on 10 pm. I had to be happy with that, although McDonalds had just closed as I rolled by. <br /><br /><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">I got a room at the local chapter of the Best Western, then trundled next door to Boston Pizza. Unfamiliar with the menu I gazed at the confusing options for some minutes (haven’t they heard of a Napoli with anchovies and olives?) before realising another rider was stacking his bike next to mine at the entrance. I motioned for him to join me. Chris Seistrup sat opposite and without hesitation relayed his order to the waitress. He explained that he meant to do the race last year but wasn’t able to in the end, thus had his plan well entrenched, including what he was ordering at various establishments. He also divulged that he had a medical condition (haemophilia) involving being unable to make platelets used in blood clotting. Wow! Still confused by the menu I let the waitress basically order for me and listened in on Chris’s conversation with his wife. Everything was going to plan. He’d restrained himself such that his heart rate never achieved a certain threshold, unlike many of the riders around him. I raised my hand in guilty confirmation and he shot me a knowing smile. We ended up splitting the room I’d just booked. Rather than share the other half of the king bed he flopped onto the lounge, limbs going everywhere and set his alarm for 3 am, just a few hours away. In case you’ve been living under a rock, he would end up winning this thing. In contrast to Chris who was all chipper and sparkle, I really had over-exerted myself that first day. The pizza choice was not really the salt extravaganza I was after and I battled cramps in a fitful sleep. Not so great a start after all.<br /><br />(Day 1, 254 km and 3430 m vert)<br /><br />True to his word, Chris was out super early whilst I stuck to my plan of hitting Tim Horton’s when it opened at 5 am for bagels and breakfast, followed by the 7/11 gas station for resupply then out of there. <br /><br />On the climb out of Fernie I hooked up with a couple of other riders, including Les Brown, from England, whose rig was an unusual combination of steel Surley frame and Cannondale lefty fork. I’d be intermittently crossing paths with Les for several days to come.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">The rest of the day unfolded largely as planned, with the emphasis being on not overly stressing the tendons. I passed the point on Cabin Pass where my left achilles blew in 17. I’d started the race with my achilles tendons strapped with KT tape, as a precaution. Although I’d felt some strain in both on Koko the day prior, everything seemed to be settling down. Just pedal gently, I kept reminding myself. Before I knew it I was at The Wall, which was far drier than in 17. I was through it in about 20 min, then onto the slopes of Galton Pass, which was far harder than I remembered - possibly (once again) as I tackled it in the morning in 17.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">The super fast gravel descent off Galton spat me onto bitumen and I crossed the border into the US at approx 4:30pm, 18 hrs earlier than in 2017. It had been another hot day so I immediately retreated to the First and Last Chance Bar opposite the border crossing and loaded up on coke and chips before heading into Eureka where I got a sit down meal before resupplying at the servo opposite. I was aiming for a drop-toilet “Montana Hilton” deep in the scary wilderness of the Glacier National Park so kicked on, crawling over Whitefish Pass in the twilight, and then descended under lights into the blackness. My original plan was to make it as far as the Wurtz Cabin area, but upon arriving at Kuchuck campground, 20 km short, I was starting to feel quite weary so decided to check out the options. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">No vehicles/campers were present as I rolled around until I found the obligatory Hilton. I was surprised to discover this one was locked, already occupied by a racer who got there before me, Janie Hayes from Colorado. She offered to share it but I suggested I’d keep looking to see if there was a second one in the campground vicinity - there was! Super clean, and all to myself. Within 20 min i was comfy in my sleeping bag with the alarm set for 4 am.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">(Day 2, 243 km and 3654 m vert)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> The alarm chimed, I kitted up, packed my horse and was off at 4:30, following the blue line in the inky blackness. About 10 km later I thought I spied a flickering tail light ahead - another rider! I increased the tempo, starting to reel the rider in when suddenly I heard the disconcerting periodic beat of my rear wheel hissing gas. Dammit! A side-wall puncture. I plugged the hole with a finger on one hand whilst extracting my plug kit with the other, eventually inserting the plug and confirming that it was holding air. I pumped the tire up again and was off on the hunt for the rider ahead as the sky lightened. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">The rider, whom I eventually caught on the lower slopes of Red Meadow Pass, turned out to be Janie, the other Hilton occupant at the Kuchuck campground. Turns out that after I knocked on her door another rider showed, whom she shared the box with, resulting in a fairly uncomfortable night’s sleep. Janie and I got chatting about life, how lucky we were to be doing the race and our approximate schedules, which were similar. Janie was an exceptionally fit woman aiming to beat Lael Wilcox’s TDR record of approx 17 days. The way she was riding I had no doubt in my mind she could do it. Whilst chatting we rounded a corner; is that a bear? I think it is! An enormous dark bear was ambling along the trail 100 m ahead of us. I fumbled with my camera whilst Janie activated the external speakers for her music device and the bear soon caught sense of our presence, taking off into jungle. Awesome! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Janie Hayes</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">We crested Red Meadow Pass with its lovely lake and tranquil setting, spackled with remnant snow, then sped down the other side making Whitefish at 9 o’clock. Janie had a cafe in mind, which, much to my horror, was the same one from which breakfast disagreed with me in 17. I restricted my purchase to coffee and a light snack then headed on to Columbia Falls where I found an off-route gas station for resupply. The rest of the day I was by myself, wending my way through a mixture of trail types in heavy bear country, seeing plenty of white tailed deer and elk and around one corner almost ran over a bobcat with its distinctive stubby tail. I had called ahead to book a room at Holland Lake Lodge, predicting I wouldn’t make it till 11-ish, but fortunately was ahead of schedule, arriving at 9 before the kitchen was closed. I enjoyed a three course meal washed down with a beer whilst chatting with Janie and a few other riders new to me. This put me a full day ahead of my 2017 schedule. Perfect! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">(Day 3, 285 km and 2857 m vert)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">I was up at 4, as was Janie, but unlike me she was not ready to roll. At Red Meadow Lake she’d felt regret at racing the route rather than having time to share the experience with her partner. She’d slept on it and decided she was going to take a breather and wait for her husband, also competing in the race, before cruising the route at a more touring pace, much as I’d done with Anita and Ham the previous year. </span><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Unless
you’ve committed to the masochistic mindset required to race the route
this is definitely a more pleasant way to experience such magnificent
country.</span> I was sad to hear this as we were on a similar wavelength and i was looking forward to intermittently riding with her in coming days. That said, I was also feeling the tug of just wanting to tour the route a little so understood, wishing her the best.</span><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">At 4:30 I pressed forth in the company of Nico Deportago-Cabrera (from Chicago) and Jason Kiefer (from Colorado) who both immediately took off up the trail. I was just happy to tap out my own rhythm on what was a very chilly morning, prompting many wardrobe changes as penetrant fingers of sun would temporarily cook you, only to be plunged back into arctic conditions round the next shadowed corner. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">The Richmond Peak traverse was mercifully free of snow and I really enjoyed the single track round the back of the mountain before eventually gaining rural farm roads and the welcoming town of Ovando. Kathy Schoendoerfer was waiting to welcome me and take my photo. She recognised me from two years ago, sporting the same scrappy sideburns, cultivated for sun protection, and dubbed me “David of the Mutton Chops” in a Facebook post, much to the amusement of friends back home. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> At the Stray Bullet Cafe I enjoyed a huge breakfast consisting of an omelette and pancakes, coke and coffee in the presence of Jason Kiefer. Finally my appetite had turned up for the show! I kicked on down the trail towards Huckleberry Pass and Lincoln, which I gained at 3:30 in the afternoon. In my original plan, after three huge days of 250 km, I was to have a short day and take a hotel in Lincoln, but the day was so young and conditions so clear that I decided to push for Helena. This would involve knocking off a trifecta of passes, the first two being very steep and tough (Poormans, and an unnamed pass) followed by Priest Pass, that I hoped my tendons would be OK with. Once again, these proved far harder than I remember, having tackled them first thing in the morning in 17. There’s a theme there!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> Lovely meadows en route to Priest Pass</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Aaron Denberg</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Rig comparison; Aaron vs Dave (minus the backpack!)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> </span>I was joined at the top of Priest Pass by Aaron Denberg (from Wyoming). I couldn’t quite believe how little kit he was carrying, more confirmation that my rig was probably too heavy. We descended into Helena. Aaron wasn’t interested in a room, but I certainly was. After a bit of pfaffing, striking out on the first two hotels, I eventually settled into the Best Western and had a pizza, garlic bread and large soda delivered. Everything should have been rosy, right? For some reason I had sunk into a bit of a funk, and it was only the end of the 4th day. The room was massive, with two king beds, which was ridiculous given that I was only going to be there for 5 hrs max and wouldn’t be able to get value out of even one of them. As I showered I registered the sensation of whole body soreness, and this was hardly going to let up for the next two weeks. My right hand was developing numbness and tingles (although I could still do the Vulcan salute), my face was puffy, I had welts all over my back and left shoulder, presumably from some insect that had become enmeshed in my jersey. My legs were swollen and holding fluid, ballooning dramatically out from the edge of my socks. My backside was already adorned with an assortment of tender saddle sores I’d have to monitor carefully, and one of my two cache batteries seemed to have given up functioning, so I binned it. In short I was pretty beat up. Was I really capable of continuing or would my fragility eventually sink me? How much further could I descend down this trajectory? How would I hold up mentally if things got worse? Thoughts of scratching entered my mind for the first time. Fortunately I had lots of positive vibes filtering through from back home (thanks guys), and sleep got the better of me before I could let this train of thought fester.<br /><br />(Day 4, 260 km and 3770 m vert)<br /><br />My mood was much improved as I rolled out early the next morning and ticked over the first pass of the day. The morning highlight was a badger that bounded across the track in front of me. Next was the nasty Lava Mountain singletrack, chunks of which I couldn’t ride, but I was mentally prepared for it so it wasn’t so bad. Unfortunately, on some of the bits I was muscling through, the contortions of the rear tyre over rocks and roots were disrupting the integrity of the plug in the rear tyre which gradually hemorrhaged air. I stopped at the top, initially suspecting I had another puncture before realising what the issue was and inserting another two plugs adjacent the initial one. Hopefully this would now hold. I pumped up the tire then descended into Basin, thus commencing a slow headwind slog towards Butte on a very heavy gravel surface, not helped by a thunderstorm that passed overhead which dumped a bunch of rain and hail on both me and the trail. The temperature drop during this episode was striking, and I was glad I was equipped with ample warm and wet weather gear, although my waterproof home-fabricated lower leggings would barely fit up over my swollen calves.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">As I approached Butte the state of my rear tyre was weighing on my mind. Although the additional plugs seemed to be holding, would this be OK for another 3000 km? Upon entering town I decided to replace it, so made a B-line for the Derailed Bike Shop. Although they didn’t have any 29er IKONs in stock, Austin, the manager, recommended a Vittoria Mezzcal, which I’d heard was a good tyre, so opted for this instead. The guys pointed me in the direction of a lunch spot a few blocks away, whilst they swapped out the tyre. I got a couple of delicious wraps and a large Coke from the Pita Pit then trotted back to the shop to discover that the new tire was proving a real bear to mount - it took Austin and two assistants to muscle it onto the wide Nextie rim. I hoped it would loosen up over time or I’d have issues putting in a tube if required. In any case, I was most grateful to have fresh rubber and sealant for the next chapter of the journey. The shop was out of dry lube so I picked some up at the nearby Bad Beaver Bikes, then retraced my steps back to the race route and continued onto Safeway for resupply, where I once again bumped into Les Brown who was just about to head out again. <br /><br />Back on the trail I realised I’d forgotten to swap the chain out for a new one I was carrying at the bike shop, so stopped and did it trailside. The new one meshed perfectly, indicating I hadn't left the change too late. I hoped to at least make the Beaver Creek Campground and associated Hiltons but, as the evening was perfectly clear and still, a plan formed in my head to keep going and get over Fleecer Ridge and hit a Hilton on the other side. At least tackling the Fleecer ridge descent in the dark would eliminate any heroics associated with riding the chute. <br /><br />The Hilton I had in mind I’d spied from satellite images; located next to a boat launch by the bridge before the sealed road to Wise River. I arrived at 12:30 am to find it empty and beautifully clean. Perfect! I bedded down and set the alarm for 3:30, with an aim of clawing up the 50 km climb along the sealed scenic byway in the morning to breakfast at High Mountain Lodge in the Grasshopper Valley.<br /><br />(Day 5, 208 km and 3763 m vert)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3dfZLCVunplKc9TggxPveOEX5FMbCN0U1p6l7kHhnEuyVK7oDHftJV7QFvxNWYNI5s1hMEuSA7xEC-2r8uNE2J300VuJPnRuLUqi8onsqp_PXUGgra10Eatg6nfalQjOhdc_I7kBXFCol/s1600/IMG_2422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3dfZLCVunplKc9TggxPveOEX5FMbCN0U1p6l7kHhnEuyVK7oDHftJV7QFvxNWYNI5s1hMEuSA7xEC-2r8uNE2J300VuJPnRuLUqi8onsqp_PXUGgra10Eatg6nfalQjOhdc_I7kBXFCol/s320/IMG_2422.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Nico, Russ and I</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">In 17 I didn’t stop at High Mountain Lodge, and when touring the sector in 18 found it closed, so I was very keen to finally see what all the fuss was about. Russ Kip was fantastically welcoming and sat me down next to Nico, then Dylan Morton (who’d spooked me near the top of the climb, emerging from his bivvy). Both were very impressive riders with relaxed demeanours. Nico was a bike messenger by trade, sported braids, had a few trans-continental races on his books, and was smashing the route on a SS rig. Dylan (yet another rider from Colorado) had perhaps the smoothest pedalling style of any of the riders I’d seen on course, and his rig was conspicuous by its absence of rooster-tail, but with dry bags on the fork stanchions. We tucked into Russ’s signature breakfast #9, consisting of 3 fried meat patties, three pancakes, and three hash browns, (or was it omelettes?) washed down with orange juice and coffee. The mind was starting to get rusty with the details. In any case, it was a great stop and Nico and I were soon on our way, slipping further down into the expansive Grasshopper Valley, past Polaris, with a gentle tailwind at our backs, before hitting the Bannack road. Having gears allowed me to gain a bit of a gap on Nico, but he caught me back up, as did Dylan, on the gradual rolling, wind-all-over-the-place climb up to the Medicine Lodge Divide. Once again, the stunning views of the range marking the Montana-Idaho border were a highlight for me, along with the impressive Big Sheep Canyon that eventually dumps one on the frontage road to Lima. Hello tailwind!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">The Bannack Bench</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Nico (above), and with Dylan (below)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Medicine Lodge Divide</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">With a continuing tailwind on offer past Lima I kept my resupply snappy, metaphorically hoisted spinnaker, and milked the breeze along the vast treeless valley ahead. This worked splendidly until the sun finally set, dropping the wind to nought, and doing similar things to the temperature. It was now seriously cold, and late, and disconcertingly my left knee was starting to complain. It was clear I wasn’t going to make Lakeview, let along the Montana-Idaho border, so threw down camp just off the track.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">(Day 6, 287 km and 2560 m for the day)<br /><br />As I packed my horse in the pre-dawn, my Garmin told me it was -5 C. No wonder I’d been reluctant to exit my bivvy. Once on the track I shortly passed Nico starting to stir from his far more minimalist bivvy, who also made comment re the cold. Shortly after passing the Upper Lakeview campground (my bivvy spot in 17), I saw another rider in the distance I’d not seen for many days - Alexandera Houchin, who was battling Nico for SS honours. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Alexandera</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Alexandera is one tough cookie, running SS, flats (pedals), work boots, canvas shorts, and, like Nico, minimal kit. It blew my mind that day after day I was unable to get significantly ahead of her. She was clearly able to operate on less sleep than I was, and doing it all on a single speed. Of all the riders I encountered for the entire event, she was perhaps the most impressive, certainly when it came to mental resolve. And mental toughness is a huge part of what this event is all about.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Next obstacle on the menu was the relatively short climb to the Montana-Idaho border, a bit of a milestone for anyone doing the Tour Divide. An hour or so later I was at the Subway at Island Park, licking my wounds (sore knee), oiling my chain, then resupplying some more at the gas station over the road before tacking the energy sapping monotony of the rail trail. Dylan, Nico and Alexandera were content to let me ride on as they coalesced at the gas station. The rail trail is hard enough as it is, but there was also an unusually strong headwind adding to the difficulty. Dylan soon caught me as I gained the railway tunnels above the Warm River campground. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">The block headwind was in full play, sapping one of energy just trying to gain the open fields above the campground. The Yellowstone and Teton massifs were finally visible although their peaks were shrouded in a grey cloud mass that didn’t look pleasant. That’s exactly where the blue GPX line was leading us. I stopped in at Squirrel Creek Ranch if only to enjoy a reprieve from the wind, but the cokes and chocolate brownies were seriously worth it! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> Back on track, at least now I was in the trees where the wind was tempered, but as the day grew long, so the cold set in, along with rain, then snow in the final push towards the lodgings of Flagg Ranch in the twilight. I enjoyed riding with Dylan, a bike mechanic by trade, who found humor in my comment that no one does science for the money, but I was doing it for the money because at least it paid more than my stint as a bike mechanic. Dylan and I pulled into Flagg Ranch together and immediately gravitated towards the warmth of the restaurant, where we gained a table in the bar and ordered a double serve of mega nachos. I mentioned to Dylan that I recognized the waiter from last time as being a bit of a character. Dylan relayed this to the guy. “Was I an asshole?” he retorted, all in good nature. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> Dylan with one of the two mega plates of nachos</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">The last few hours had been particularly worrying for me. I now had tingles in both hands, and my left knee was getting more and more painful, to the extent I was starting to have trouble putting pressure on it. I’d never suffered knee pain like this before, so it was a definite concern. Anita chimed in from Australia, suggesting a taping strategy I might experiment with. I definitely wasn’t going any further that night, nor was Dylan, given the freezing conditions, so we booked a campsite, the same one Anita, Ham and I used when touring in 18. As we headed off Alexandera arrived, and we passed on the excess Nachos we’d ordered, in part, as we worried she wouldn’t arrive before the kitchen closed. Much to my astonishment she declined the nachos and was pushing on, into the mountains and the bleakness. Grit!<br /><br />(Day 7, 203 km and 1518 m vert)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Although I wasn’t sure how far I’d get, or whether the bleak weather conditions were set to persist, i needed to at least give it a crack. I did my best to tape my left knee then gingerly packed a soggy camp. Dylan did a lot of stirring but never quite emerged from his bivvy, so I left him there. The pre-dawn light grew revealing an eerie frost-dominated landscape. At least the precipitation had stopped. I descended into the magnificent Teton-backed amphitheater of Jackson Lake and passed the entrance to Coulter Bay, just a few hours shy of two full days ahead of 17 when I rolled out from the same Coulter Bay campground. But at what cost? On the menu was Union Pass, which was sure to thoroughly test all my joints and weaknesses.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">First stop was the Buffalo Valley Cafe, which along with Ovando’s Stray Bullet I reckon delivered the best breakfasts en route. I love that place! The sky was a moody overcast, with grey squalls dotting the horizon. Without realizing it I was headed towards one of these, with large snowflakes suddenly falling on the climb up to Togwotee Lodge. The sun briefly cut through at the lodge before more squalls blocked it out as the main pass was gained. A heavy drift guarded the entrance to Brooks Lake road, with similar amounts of snow and mud as I remember in 17. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">On to the main show - Union Pass. I was expecting the worst, but the snow-pack wasn’t as significant as in 17, however my knee was in terrible shape. Despite my attempts at taping the left knee it was very hard graft basically doing Union with the one leg. At this stage I’d caught Alexandera again and we swapped the lead several times as we traversed the plateau before the big descent down to the sealed road as the sun sunk behind the horizon and the temperature plummeted - as if it hadn’t been cold enough. I put the blinkers on and aimed for Pinedale, as hard as my one leg would take me into the headwind. I had to stop several times to add layers of clothing, including my long sleeve thermal top and bottom, generally reserved for sleeping, as the temperature dropped below freezing. In the end I was wearing everything I owned apart from my sleeping bag, and I was still cold.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"> <span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Time (and kilometers) seemed to stand still on that long freezing grind. After an eternity I rolled into town and could barely disengage from the bike at the 24 hr gas station. I got a few things to tide me over that night, but was in a thoroughly despondent mood when Alexandera rolled in. She asked if I’d split the room at the Best Western I was about to book, but I had to decline and apologized. I was hurting all over. I couldn’t even mount the bike to roll back to the hotel. I craved a bit of space where I could crawl around naked on my knees and sort myself out. Part of me was fearful I wouldn’t be going anywhere the next morning. It was definitely a low point, and the second time when the possibility of scratching seemed very real. The flying start was definitely over and the wheels were showing signs of falling off.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Once holed up I had a bath, a beer and a pack of chips, put my feet up the wall, and exchanged a few texts back home. More instruction was obtained on how to tape a knee, although I’d used the last of the KT tape so would have to procure more in the morning. At least with clean knees I might get it to stick! It also occurred to me that knee pain was one of the symptoms of a saddle being too low. I’ve always run my mtb saddle approx 1 cm below that of my road bike, allowing extra body movement in rough terrain, so I figured I had a cm to play with. Another thing I’d have to sort in the morning, although I figured I wouldn't be going anywhere fast, so didn't bother setting an alarm. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">(Day 8, 245 km and 2859 m vert)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-55886895039704349622019-07-17T11:00:00.000+10:002019-09-19T09:09:57.955+10:00Tour Divide 2019 - Why would you do it again?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">This was compatriot and TD vet Paul Lester’s response when I caught up with him recently and suggested I was thinking of having another run. He should know, after all; having completed the race in 2016 he backed it up with another crack in 2017, where I rode with him intermittently on the day into Holland Lake. In 2016, during his first attempt, he was ambushed by mud in New Mexico, which really blew his race apart, and I suspect he wanted another opportunity to squeeze a better time out of himself (and he did, 27 days to 22:22!). In part going faster was my reason too, along with the fact that there is just so much amazing scenery to absorb. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">In 2017, I felt handicapped almost the whole journey by one thing or another. I think I was in damage control from the end of day 2 when my left achilles blew. The adjoining ankle then became incredible tender (probably related). By day 4 I noticed my hands losing their dexterous power (insidious ulnar nerve compression), and in northern Colorado an aspen crashed down just in front of me on a windy descent and I skinned the right side of my body and badly sprained my right groin. On arrival at Antelope Wells I could barely walk 50 m. I was a real mess and took 4 months off the bike to let my hands recover - then promptly broke my collarbone, thus wiping out the rest of 2017! For almost 6 months solid I would catch the bus to work (rather than ride) thinking about the Tour Divide, and how for those three brief weeks I never felt more alive.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Before my 2017 run I’d estimated I’d need 20 days (~220 km/day). Anita would fly out from Oz and meet me at the scheduled end before we’d retreat to California to catch up with her sister. Although way behind early, I somehow managed to keep the wheels turning and grind home in 20 days 19 hrs (~208 km/day) - a great relief to be roughly on the mark, although I would have loved to have come in under 20. In hindsight, 20 and change was a pretty good time given that I basically had no idea what I was doing or any real perspective of the route or the town frequency/layouts (I only hotel’d 4 nights) - coupled with the brutality of the Koko Claims reroute, heaps of snow, very heavy conditions in the first week, and my accrued collection of physical handicaps. That said, weather wise, apart from that first week and nasty NM headwinds I had a pretty sweet run. Weather plays a huge part in this game. Hence, going quicker might not be trivial. A similar or different barrage of problems may await. Am I really prepared to surrender myself to the mercy of the random affliction and weather generator, and its requisite hurt-box? For reasons I cant quite explain… yes! I’ve barely stopped thinking about the experience - it’s challenges and the commensurate satisfaction of having completed the task last time. Now into my 50<sup>th</sup>year I wanted to give it one another crack, and maybe become cured.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">One thing for sure though, I didn’t want to finish in the same mess as in 2017. I needed to convince myself (and Anita) that I could prevent some of the ailments that got me last time - namely hands and achilles. Hands appeared to be the simplest to fix. Cylindrical foam grips were swapped for the flared Ergon variety, and I added a set of tri-bars to provide different positions for hands and back. I wouldn’t have believed how much faster the position is until I tried it, so there was that advantage as well. Achilles was unlikely to be so simple. I introduced some running, on and off-road, into my training in an effort to strengthen ligaments which otherwise don’t see a lot of torsional or impact stress. On top of learning how to use KT tape, and starting with cleats fully retracted, I hoped this would be enough, although I expected some aggravation at some point, especially as Koko Claims would once again feature. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">As far as the camping rough part, which I don't mind, apart from the whole terrifying large carnivore thing, I went into this year’s race having actually researched the route properly, which was much easier having actually done it previously. Before TD17 I found the complexity and length so daunting I really only had an inkling of how I might get through the Canadian sector, and the rest I’d have to play by ear, which in part is what made it such an adventure, including missing the crucial turn just after cresting Boreas Pass. In 2019 I would have a better idea of when to push, when not to, and whether a target was worth it or not. Scrutinising every inch of the route from satellite would, of course, take some of the mystery out of it, but to some extent that is gone anyway on the second running. That said, once on the ground, in the wilderness, alone, life is pretty raw and anything can happen. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;">Fingers crossed, and see you on the other side.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 14.666666984558105px;">My rig, ready to roll</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter";"><span style="font-size: 14.666666984558105px;">Some of the other more colourful setups - in this case with Arizona state flag motifs</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 14.666666984558105px;">I'd be swapping Anita for bears for the next 3 weeks</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 14.666666984558105px;">Beautiful Banff</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 14.666666984558105px;">Traditional bad weather rolling in the night before the start</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11pt;"><br /></span></div>
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-47827137899985996142018-10-17T13:04:00.000+11:002018-10-17T13:04:05.824+11:00Jungle Ride 2018<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It’s
been an interesting last fortnight on the riding front, with two very different
events.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Wagga “Gears and Beers” cyclosportif
was dry, dusty, and coloured by a temperature palette to match - freezing at the
start and warm at the end.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And so dry,
in fact, that the local chapter of the Fire Department parked engines on one dirt
sector and provided an extremely local overhead rain event to add some
sloppiness to the otherwise powdery rubbly mix.</span>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">In
some respects Wagga was the ride that broke the drought.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After an extremely dry winter, it almost
hasn't stopped raining in Sydney since (accompanied by persistent wintery
temperatures) with the inland also getting a good drink.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Fast
forward two weeks and Anita and I got up at 5 am on a Friday morning, dashing
to the airport for a weekend of adventure and heat, flying up to Cairns to meet
Greg and family, who’d driven up from Townsville (four hours further south).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Apart from being a good chance to catch up
with all things ‘Panky’, it was also the opportunity to partake in a much
smaller charity ride.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Whilst the Wagga
event attracted 2500 riders, soaked up by the town of 65000, the Jungle Ride
was a much smaller affair - 250 riders departing out of Port Douglas (an hour
north of Cairns), population 3500.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
Port Douglas area has also been in drought - having had barely any rain for the
previous 6 months, despite being smack on the coast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hence the conspicuous “Level 2 Water
Restrictions” advertised.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Naturally,
that all changed the evening of our arrival in Cairns.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once the heavens open up, up there, they
don't muck around. It wasn’t super warm (30 C), but the humidity made movement
heavy and claustrophobic as I assembled our bikes on the deck of our Balinese style
tree-house.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
route itself was largely an out and back affair, heading north through cane
fields on mostly small rural roads, before reaching the Daintree River at
approx. 60 km, necessitating a ferry crossing to the northern bank, where a
heavily chip-sealed road (one of the roughest I’ve ever ridden) weaves its way
through tunnels of green, over a pass then northwards to Cape Tribulation,
where the sealed road ends.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Named by
Captain Cook back in 1770, this marks a reef-pocked area where the wheels
started to fall off the Endeavour, so to speak.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The return trip covers ~180 km.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
ride kicked off early the next morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We up’d at 3 am, bundled riders and bikes into the car, and were on the
road just after 4 am for the rainy drive from Cairns up the coastal road in the
dark, arriving in Port Douglas just in time to disembark bikes, take in the
rider briefing, then roll out, just as the heavens opened again.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Talk about muggy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The rain rendered the opening handful of
round-a-bouts quite greasy, bring down a few riders in our bunch - Anita
included - fortunately at low speed and resulting in only bruises - but not the
way she wanted to kick off a long day in the saddle.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
ride was quite controlled as far as the Daintree River - split into escorted
groups of about 30 riders.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As pointed
out by one of the locals, the inhabitants up this way are either greenies or libertarian
conspiracy theorists, some of the latter taking a dim view to having their
freedoms impinged upon by bloody bicycles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Must say i didn’t see any agro on the day, and rather enjoyed the narrow
farm roads, lined with cane fields of various heights, whilst impressive dense
hillsides loomed with their top segments obscured by mist.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It might just be romantic reckonings, but the
olfactory overtones of molasses and rotting fruit and vegetation awakened some
sort of nostalgia for my childhood - having spent my first 6 years amongst cane
fields near Cairns.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Aside from
intermittent showers, the only other obstacles to be wary of were a dozen or so
narrow-gauge rail lines for the cane baskets, which frequently crisscrossed the
roads, some at extremely oblique angles.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">With
the Daintree river attained, it was more laissez faire.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Post ferry crossing the chip-seal ploughed
straight into the jungle, up over a steep climb of a few Km - steep enough to
have to remain seated on the greasy surface - to a lookout affording views of
the mouth of the Daintree to the east, before plunging back into the jungle, a
few times emerging to kiss the coast, with glimpses of ocean just outside the
trees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Spectacular stuff, albeit along a
damp surface one certainly didn’t want to come off on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Road signs warning of kangaroos were swapped
with those warning of large flightless birds with helmets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was surprised how undeveloped the area
remained - true also of the Cape Tribulation itself - just a few very low key
resorts and B&Bs nestled in the jungle, next to a beguiling ocean loaded
with stingers, crocs, and other things with teeth.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Refreshed
and lunched we about-faced, making a B-line back to the Ferry and an escort
back through the cane fields for the last 60 km, but not before watching a croc
lazily drift across the ferry path 50 m out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Various estimates of size were proffered, with most agreeing that one
should round up in such situations- so definitely 4 to 5 m! The ride finished
where it started, at the local football ground, with typical sports club fare of
sandwiches, hot chips, cold drinks, speeches and banter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chloe even got the chance for a chat and pic
with one S. O’Grady - despite being a little on the young side to appreciate
his feats.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
day wasn’t quite done yet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After soaking
up the afternoon atmosphere we bundled back into cars, taking in the
spectacular coastline heading south back to Cairns, whence I stripped the bikes
back into their cases for the journey home.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The rain hammered the roof all night.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Before our afternoon flight the following day we joined Greg, Sue, Chloe
and Sam for a boat trip out to Fitzroy Island for a bit of sightseeing and
snorkeling before returning for the afternoon flight, losing the hour gained to
the clocks, and finally getting home (track-work and all) after midnight.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Needless to say we’ll sleep solidly for a few
nights yet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thanks for a terrific time
guys!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bird of the trip -<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a cassowary would have been nice - but in
this case, the night-time wailing of Bush-stone Curlews, and the Torresian
Imperial Pigeons were a highlight!</span></div>
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-11377787580298620542018-10-16T17:04:00.001+11:002018-10-16T17:04:23.669+11:00Wagga Dirty 130<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Yet
another country town has been getting into the cyclosportif act.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Having previously sampled road events centered
on Bathurst, Bowral and Orange, would the “town of many crows” be any
different?</span>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Although,
at 130 km, it was going to be shorter than the aforementioned events, it was
certainly going to be interesting in that 40 of those km were unpaved - somewhat
blurring the line towards this being a gravel event.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And many saw it as exactly that, given the
array of on-trend specialty machines strewn about the park hosting the rego.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Word
was that a road bike shod with fatter slicks would do the job, short of
bringing 29er hard-tails, so that’s what we brought.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve been running 25s front and rear for a
few years now, but for Ham and Anita it was their first foray into having more
rubber on the road.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">No
rain was forecast, but a frigid start was certainly in the offing,
necessitating the right combination of layers to deal with the arc of the sun.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Soggies were a large bunch this year - no
doubt pining for Monts past - as we assembled at the start.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
first gravel sector arrived only ~ 15 km in, with a plume of dust heralding its
arrival.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The dust in those early
segments was so thick it was hard to see what was going on a times, and
punctuated by doubled-over bodies strewn along the sides, dealing with what
was, for many, the first of many punctures.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I think Ben suffered 3 in the first 25 km, then another later on, Mikey
got one, whilst I also felt that squishy feeling just after the penultimate
strip of dirt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The tracks themselves
ranged from hot-mix quality hardpack, through squirming sand, rooty double
track, all the way to horrid ice cube gravel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Something for everyone, and every bike setup.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ideally tires more towards CX width (low to
mid 30s - which standard road frames wont swallow) would be more appropriate ,
given there is still 90 km of asphalt to gobble.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If it were 90 km of dirt, you’d go the 29er
hard tail.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
was a little put off by how far one has to drive to make Wagga from Sydney, but
it was certainly worth it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Of all the
abovementioned events I think Wagga is probably the least serious, most fun,
and one we’ll be back for in years to come. Heaps of accom, good country town
vibe, and Baillon’s crake an easy tick at the local wetlands.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And what better excuse to justify adding to
the number of bikes lurking in the garage?</span></div>
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-57668806032078025362018-08-22T16:58:00.000+10:002018-08-22T16:58:11.642+10:00Colo Meroo<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Once
a year a bunch of us usually manage to get out for a blokes winter overnighter
- with the obvious requisites of an evening fire and the imbibing of whiskey
and other delights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This year it was
just Neil and I.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The route we chose
started in Mountain Lagoon (just east of Bilpin, on the Bell line of road over
the Blue Mtns), and pressed east then north into the Wollemi National Park,
skirting along Mailes Ridge for ~5 km, before plunging the final 350 m down to
a campsite on the lovely Colo river.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Terrific
day for it - cool and breezy, with predictable jelly legs at the bottom.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s been incredibly dry throughout most of
NSW over the last month, so it was somewhat comical that a light shower basted
us whilst having a brief swim in the rather cool sandy river at the bottom -
followed by some sunshine during which a few bottles of beer helped wash down
Bhuja mix nibbles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Neil provided the
dinner in the form of spag bol, around a nice fire in a lovely open camp setting,
which we had to ourselves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Wicked
cool winds throughout the night and following day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Being an out and back route we started the
next day by immediately having to gain 350 m over the first 1.5 km.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lots of scrambling on a rocky track.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And lots of undulations and more climbing to
get back to the car.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Don’t believe the
accrued elevation proffered in various descriptions - (one report suggesting an
‘easy’ 580 m of vert).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>According to my
Etrex we gained over 350 m of elevation on the way out alone (despite starting
at almost 600 m and ending at 30 m), and by the time we got back to the car had
gained 1325 m total for the 27 km out and back.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>No wonder my legs were trashed 2 days later.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That said, a really terrific walk through
some lovely bush, with great views from the narrow ridge, and definitely worth another
venture in coming years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thanks for a
great time Neil!</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Birds
of the trip - a close-up ridge-eye view of a Peregrine Falcon repeatedly dive-bombing
a Wedge-tail Eagle that was cruising the gorge just below us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not a sight you get to see every day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>PS - the campsite is a dead cert for Bassian
Thrush.</span></div>
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Neil sporting a new pack</div>
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lunch spot</div>
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Colo from Mailes Ridge</div>
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goanna tracks</div>
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-14721399622988352302018-08-22T16:38:00.000+10:002018-08-22T16:38:39.913+10:00Touring the Tour Divide - Butte to Breck<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Enjoy!<br />
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-79838933404260210492017-12-13T09:43:00.002+11:002018-01-08T17:50:11.547+11:00How not to follow up the Tour Divide<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
was hoping that an upside of the Tour Divide might be some uber fitness I’d be
able to bring to some end of year riding.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I obviously got to the end, but quite a bit more damaged than I’d really
bargained for.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The groin and ankles showed
some measurable recovering in two weeks of convalescence, limping around
Arizona, then California.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But on
returning to Oz my hands appeared just as useless as they were when I
finished.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To give you an indication of
what they’d become, let your fingers go totally limp, then try to insert your
hands into your jean pockets - no straightening digits!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The muscles responsible for finger
straightening (the lumbricals) were one of the sets of muscles I had zero
control over.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cupping hands (to cup
water), gripping zippers, and cutting food (extending forefinger down the spine
of a knife) were all in the too hard basket and required workarounds.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Back
in Oz, having not touched the bike for a couple of weeks I was keen to at least
turn the legs over.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That first ride greeted
me with a rude shock - actually multiple tinglings in my hands accompanying
every little jolt and corrugation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After
a week of this, reason finally sunk in and I decided that hammering hands that
were clearly trying to recover was not a smart thing to do. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This resulted in a lifestyle choice I’d not
taken since my teens - extended time off the bike.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For months I’d catch the bus to the city, and
the train home, sometimes catching glimpses of people on their commute.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It didn’t take much of this before I’d muse,
“I used to be one of them”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Riding became
a distance memory.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Despite
being assured by those in the know that all would probably return to normal in
the hands department, tangible improvements were almost impossible to
realize.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As weeks passed things seemed
to be happening on the left hand, but the right was stubbornly unresponsive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Only after about 3 months did the right suddenly
decide to “wake up”, and assuage fears that I was dealing with something
permanent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At about the four and a half
month mark things were looking up; I could stick hands in pockets and cup
water, and the tingling was almost gone completely.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Time to ease back onto the bike.</span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_U5WT0UWgyJL3qv_PCKD05-NzbG6h-8kHf4ttUzhLpo6wHuxghJw6eBTDkVkg26VdoDMQQmBPwVrKQfGtlgHgud3dIgveK5QNcO2Pw2hkVLhuRV0kTsS12Jc1_oGwKD04WKHhVNiB0opM/s1600/5B289984-96AE-4F7F-8236-5CA52CB0EA06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_U5WT0UWgyJL3qv_PCKD05-NzbG6h-8kHf4ttUzhLpo6wHuxghJw6eBTDkVkg26VdoDMQQmBPwVrKQfGtlgHgud3dIgveK5QNcO2Pw2hkVLhuRV0kTsS12Jc1_oGwKD04WKHhVNiB0opM/s320/5B289984-96AE-4F7F-8236-5CA52CB0EA06.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">You can guess what happened next.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Daydreaming on the M7 whilst following the flight of a bird I never did
get to identify resulted in hands bumping off the bars, and the rest of me
bumping along the concrete like a sack of spuds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thus ensued the pain in my shoulder I’m still
dealing with 2 months post accident, now 6 months post Tour Divide.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What a shocker, but all in a first world kind
of way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At least Anita and I are still
in convalescent solidarity (she is still on the blood thinners), and we can
take solace in being useless on the adventure front, together.</span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7vfYQrIcq0-4IFaPoCJDHFDnfZZpvRIs8uihlBgNLpDQ0cGzj6NXOm3lMPR-NVcn4PbYcEbqHy9WpmPOA2tPsPRdpQYllwjdY-Ub7J-zyrRF2py4URCZV8xv7AKZ12CGrX1oBiYV8pOZD/s1600/plate+copy.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1483" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7vfYQrIcq0-4IFaPoCJDHFDnfZZpvRIs8uihlBgNLpDQ0cGzj6NXOm3lMPR-NVcn4PbYcEbqHy9WpmPOA2tPsPRdpQYllwjdY-Ub7J-zyrRF2py4URCZV8xv7AKZ12CGrX1oBiYV8pOZD/s320/plate+copy.png" width="296" /></a></div>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Saw
the quack two weeks ago. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Could they have
fit any more screws in there?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
prognosis is slow;<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“come back in 6 weeks”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Physio now under way to regain movement in a
shoulder that is pretty damn frozen at the moment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve signed up for the Audax version of the
3peaks at the end of Jan (perhaps optimistically), so at least there is that to
work towards, although I’ve finally relented to the trappings of the virtual
trainer to get things moving - by the time I’m allowed back on the bike proper
(mid Jan), 2 weeks prep “off the couch” isn’t likely going to be enough for the
250 km loop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg71MJWXfiYQCw-mv8CSGki7rgAlJPxaStyOHpzvI9hGk19BTRbF4_C-si9aeXc0mn0o5JOkU_I7R7Rcwxuu9BGT5XlKniYsFRGFntounLVVjxQjZYTp8N8CvmTw0u7pUfnb4XEl8rKuOr3/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-12-15+at+10.03.16+am.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="591" data-original-width="1600" height="118" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg71MJWXfiYQCw-mv8CSGki7rgAlJPxaStyOHpzvI9hGk19BTRbF4_C-si9aeXc0mn0o5JOkU_I7R7Rcwxuu9BGT5XlKniYsFRGFntounLVVjxQjZYTp8N8CvmTw0u7pUfnb4XEl8rKuOr3/s320/Screen+Shot+2017-12-15+at+10.03.16+am.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Hopefully
next year will be a better one, for both of us. </span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs6uLKijbURfgKTKgvQd4lNuiWqoE97aEUnmO4F3O57ppjBmhYqtoH3xPm4LM7kRf-9E5xeL4Hyt0GVM7wYpu2bvtdaEsXZ9lsR-JuB4io0Xx1UjiI87pAvjxHX8CWDM7tHG_YpsQsXsMf/s1600/IMG_5515.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs6uLKijbURfgKTKgvQd4lNuiWqoE97aEUnmO4F3O57ppjBmhYqtoH3xPm4LM7kRf-9E5xeL4Hyt0GVM7wYpu2bvtdaEsXZ9lsR-JuB4io0Xx1UjiI87pAvjxHX8CWDM7tHG_YpsQsXsMf/s320/IMG_5515.PNG" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Not
that I consider completing the Tour Divide equivalent to climbing Everest, but I
can </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">appreciate the irony - with apologies to Gary Larson.</span> </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">PS:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>if anyone is interested in a somewhat verbose
(lengthwise) view of my Tour Divide experience in pictures and some video set
to music I thought appropriate, here are some links - each version in 2 parts, which can be watched on Dropbox;</span></div>
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<br />
87 min version;</div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/4kqfrdpq1lzg7fn/TourDivide_Med_PartA.mp4?dl=0">https://www.dropbox.com/s/4kqfrdpq1lzg7fn/TourDivide_Med_PartA.mp4?dl=0</a></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/8b3i8hg57n3nuy3/TourDivide_Med_PartB.mp4?dl=0">https://www.dropbox.com/s/8b3i8hg57n3nuy3/TourDivide_Med_PartB.mp4?dl=0</a></span></div>
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<br />
67 min version;<br />
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<span lang="EN-US"><a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/7aikdqi66rj8i58/TourDivide_Sml_PartA.mp4?dl=0">https://www.dropbox.com/s/7aikdqi66rj8i58/TourDivide_Sml_PartA.mp4?dl=0</a></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/ykiweopizxv1d30/TourDivide_Sml_PartB.mp4?dl=0">https://www.dropbox.com/s/ykiweopizxv1d30/TourDivide_Sml_PartB.mp4?dl=0</a></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Dave out.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span>langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-32790717795735417642017-07-14T03:57:00.000+10:002018-01-08T17:51:09.752+11:00Tour Divide 2017, day 21, Silver City, Antelope Wells<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Incredibly, today
would possibly be the last day I dragged myself from slumber, painfully
dressed, had a Snickers breakfast, packed, and rolled out.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">But
it wasn't in the bag by any measure.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Whilst
there was a lot of tarmac to cover late in the day, first we had to deal with
whatever the rugged Gila mountains had in store for us.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">There
was still 100 km of lumpy profile to deal with, the most challenging of which
was likely to be a 10 km segment of the CDT; the continental divide walking
trail. </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The first kilometres
had us drifting through some heavy smoke in places, with burning stumps still
visible, the remnants of what we hoped was a control burn.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Further
up the track kilometres of freshly pruned scrub confirmed this.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Just
like during the difficult day between Abiquiu and Cuba, there was considerably
more lumpiness in reality than was evident in the profile.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Lots
of steep pinches to burn the legs, and rutted descents to torture ankles,
hands, and basically rattle everything that hurt.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Finally we got to
the last major technicality that separated us from Silver City, the CDT, which
had us pushing bikes up steep scree almost immediately. My frail ankle, tendons
and groin weren't enjoying any of it!</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
effort did, however, avail us of views across unusual terrain we'd not seen
before, with oddball succulents in poses and colours as though drawn by Dr
Seuss.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Having
gained elevation some delicate singletrack wound across ridges and gullys,
sometimes forcing another walk up steeper pinches.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We'd
stop and rest in the shade of trees here and there.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Finally, after an
exhausting first half of the day, at about </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s2"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">1:30
pm</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> we rolled into Silver City.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Miro
knew its layout well, having raced the Tour of the Gila on multiple occasions.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
envied both Craig and Miro as they elegantly lifted an extended leg over the
back of the bike whilst coasting to a halt before dismounting.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
stopped then did my signature move of painfully dragging my leg awkwardly across the top
tube frame bags.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
hobbled into the restaurant behind them and sat with Craig and Miro as an ensemble for the last time.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Miro
even had a couple of visitors drop by to wish him well.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">As
we ate Craig was having his bike serviced at the bike shop 'round the corner.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We had approximately
200 km to crunch to get to the Mexican border, largely on tarmac, and largely
flat, and we had till </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s2"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">8 am</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">
the next morning to get it done if we wanted to finish inside of 21 full days.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Anita
and I exchanged a few texts.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">She
was in the country, was following progress and was ready to come pick me up,
cautioning me not to leave too late given the time other riders had taken to
reach the end.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
wind direction was hardly ideal, but not awful either, most likely a cross wind
for most of the journey.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Whilst
it was pretty hot in the sun we didn't dither too long before kicking off and
were back on the road </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s2"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">at 4 pm</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The section out of
Silver City is on tarmac, and a little way in we got flagged down by a car
carrying bikes in the opposite direction.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Three
kiwis jumped out who'd recently finished, including Rob Davidson whom I'd
chatted with back in Banff, and who finished 5th outright (in 18 days, 10 hrs!)</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Also
present was a Belgie, Ben Steurbaut who'd smashed it in 16 days 13 hours, despite
breaking a fork descending Fleecer Ridge whilst in the lead. Having replaced it he then broke his frame, and still managed to finish (3rd outright!). Obviously built for this sort of race.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We
exchanged congratulations but of course hadn't quite finished ourselves.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Back
to the grind.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We
turned onto the last dirt sector with the angling sun and a brief taily
allowing us to appreciate the beauty of the New Mexican desert, punctuated by
more oddball Dr Seuss plants spotting the landscape.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It
was still warm and we had the odd break in a ditch quenching thirsts. A mini bottle of warm coke lugged by Craig mostly fizzed all over the ground.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Passing
through the vast property of Thorn Ranch we were escorted by the local
friendly black dog for a few kms.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Just
out for a run, it seemed. </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Darkness came and
with it the route angled more into the wind.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">At
Separ we turned and paralleled the highway on a side road till at last the dirt
was left behind for good, with nought but 100 km of empty sealed road to deal
with.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Foggy
glows would periodically</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">light
the black horizon, and in time turn out to be an oncoming car, a property light, or
even, eventually, the tiny outpost of Hachita, where a tiny store had remained
open for us.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Belgie
Ben manned the till until Jeff Sharp, the manager, arrived.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It
was still warm so I indulged in three ice blocks and a coke.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We
stayed about 30 minutes, hobbling about the shop, chatting with Ben and Jeff
and generally procrastinating. </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Finally we set off
on the final leg, getting passed only by Tour Divide related vehicles.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">First
Jeff passed us en route to picking up the two women, Ricki Cotter and Lee
Craigie, who were finishing just hours ahead of us.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">On
their return leg their car pulled over and once again congratulations and hugs
were passed round.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It
was nice to put faces on names of riders (and initials) we'd only occasionally
been privy to on Trackleaders.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Next
car to pass us heading south was Miro's pickup, and last car to pass us, just
10 km shy of the border was Anita.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Timing!</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I'd
been waiting for this moment and endured so much for so long to have it
realised.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It
was so good to see her here, on the opposite side of the globe, waiting for me.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">With
3 miles to go and the border lights glowing from the other side of the rise,
we'd agreed that Craig would ride as hard as he could to the finish.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Craig
was clearly the strongest of our trio and deserved to finish ahead of us.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Miro
and I just limped it in, side by side, as best we could.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Arriving at the
gates at just on </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s2"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">3 am</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">
was quite emotional for all of us.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
burst into tears when embracing Anita, as seems to be my custom.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Over
30 minutes we exchanged hugs, took photos and tried to celebrate with a beer or
Coke.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
was so stuffed I really didn't have the energy to drink anything, but just
enough to slowly break the bike down and help load it into the car.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Whilst doing this it stuck me how little you actually need to travel 4400 km through mud,
rain, dust and snow, from one side of a country to the other.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">But
you do need a good dose of gumption, which I think all three of us, in
fact everyone who rolled the dice, had to conjure in order to realise this outcome, this conclusion, which I think I'm still coming to terms with a week
after finishing.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Using the logic of
the "adventure map" whereby no matter how hard it was, as long as you didn't
die then you had a good adventure; then yes, it was a bloody terrific
adventure on many levels.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It
certainly wasn't easy, or clean, or even enjoyable for protracted</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">segments,
but it was ours, and we shaped it in our own way and owned it, and that in
itself is probably enough.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
honestly don't know if I'll be back for another shot, or for just touring
sections of it.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It's
still too raw and confused.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">My
toes and finger tips are still numb, both hands are almost useless, showing the classic symptoms of
compressed ulnar nerve damage (ulnar neuritis, or the appropriately named
handlebar palsy) which will likely take months to redress, and my achilles
and groin injuries still have me hobbling round like a very old man. </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">So be careful what
you wish for if you are entertaining thoughts of doing the Tour Divide.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Chances
are you'll find yourself challenged in ways you can't imagine.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">But
that, in and of itself, and the inescapable task of addressing these uncertainties and pitfalls is part
of the allure, and heightens the sense of accomplishment you'll feel crawling out the
other end.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Not
to mention experiencing the splendor of some pretty amazing scenery.</span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-7173486677708539818s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It's
raw, it's out there, it's waiting!</span></span></div>
<div class="m-7173486677708539818p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">(302
km, 2560 m, approx 15-16<sup>th</sup> overall in 20 days 19 hours)</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">
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<span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-AU; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">PS: if anyone is interested in
a somewhat verbose (lengthwise) view of my Tour Divide experience in pictures
and some video set to music I thought appropriate, here are some links - each
version in 2 parts, which can be watched on Dropbox;</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-AU; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">87 min version;</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/4kqfrdpq1lzg7fn/TourDivide_Med_PartA.mp4?dl=0">https://www.dropbox.com/s/4kqfrdpq1lzg7fn/TourDivide_Med_PartA.mp4?dl=0</a></span><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-AU; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/8b3i8hg57n3nuy3/TourDivide_Med_PartB.mp4?dl=0">https://www.dropbox.com/s/8b3i8hg57n3nuy3/TourDivide_Med_PartB.mp4?dl=0</a></span><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-AU; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-AU; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">67 min version;</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/7aikdqi66rj8i58/TourDivide_Sml_PartA.mp4?dl=0">https://www.dropbox.com/s/7aikdqi66rj8i58/TourDivide_Sml_PartA.mp4?dl=0</a></span><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-AU; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/ykiweopizxv1d30/TourDivide_Sml_PartB.mp4?dl=0">https://www.dropbox.com/s/ykiweopizxv1d30/TourDivide_Sml_PartB.mp4?dl=0</a></span><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-AU; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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Thanks to Greg and Ray for crunching the numbers!</div>
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-90484278333398825942017-07-14T02:58:00.001+10:002017-07-14T03:00:19.680+10:00Tour Divide, day 20, Toaster House, Beaverhead, Gila<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The mornings were still cold necessitating several early
stops to strip off layers, but the scenery was spectacular, dominated by
growing silhouettes of the rugged edges of the El Malpais wilderness and the
Sawtooth Mountains, which guard Pie Town, coming into view. In contrast
with the more rolling higher altitude hills of Colorado, New Mexico was
increasingly a more eroded landscape punctured by jagged
little teeth. We got to Pie Town about 8:30, skipping the pie shops
altogether (not open till 10) for the sanctuary of the Toaster House. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The Toaster House is an institution for passing walkers
and cyclists, kept afloat with donations, and magically packed to the gunnels
with snacks, cold drinks, laundry facilities, mattresses and shaded seats.
Miro made coffee and we munched on snacks and relaxed, indulging our
preferred state of procrastination, until we really felt we should kick on,
at least before the pie shops opened, which would have delayed
progress even further, and before the nastiness of the heat became too
much. A hot one was clearly on the cards. The next major resupply
town, Silver City, was 300 km away. We clearly wouldn't make that,
especially given the jagged route profile ahead, not to mention the uncooperative
winds, but hoped to get as close as possible. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We passed through dry forest, then open desert, at one
point coming across an unexpected water stop, courtesy of a local farmer
who'd stashed half a dozen 4 L bottles of water inside a signposted
barrel. More trail magic! Back into forested gullys where dry
stream beds were a counterpoint to streams in previous states that always
seemed to be running. The heat was on and periodically we'd take a
break under the shade of a tree atop a rise. The trail finally changed
tack, and shortly afterwards we crossed paths with some north-bound riders
who reckoned we'd have tail winds for the next 30 miles. A-grade! </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We descended down a spartan valley with a taily at our backs, and generally
hard buff clay under our tires. Apparently this is one of the sectors
impassable after rain courtesy of the trail transforming to peanut
butter. Paul Lester was a victim of this very phenomenon last year,
getting marooned at the same spot for several days. As Miro
pointed out, days of uncooperative wind were preferable to rain in this part
of the Divide. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The final water point of the day was the Beaverhead
Workstation, featuring a famous Coke machine. Naturally, when we
finally rolled in just before dark there was a conspicuous piece of paper
stuck to the outside indicating it was out of order. Not that I had any
coins anyway. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I was keen to make an extended evening push from here into
the Gila mountains, but Craig was the voice of reason, suggesting that we
still had time to finish comfortably inside 21 days. I wasn't so sure
he was correct, or even that the day count was correct, but we'd come this
far together so I trusted that he had a better idea of where we were placed
than I did. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We got ourselves over one pass in the Gila, and noticed
disconcerting clouds of smoke down where we were headed. Now I was
nervous about whether another re-route might have been issued that we'd
failed to receive notice of, reception having been fairly scratchy. But
what could we do? We dropped down into the valley and camped in a
relatively open area just off the trail, but with a few trees overhead to ward
off the dew. I was so conditioned to crawling into my sleeping bag filthy by this stage that it hardly even registered. Almost inconceivably, this might be my last night on the Divide - all things going well, the following day
might be our last on tour!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">(216 km, 1953 m)</span></div>
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-91130582875452649822017-07-14T02:40:00.000+10:002017-07-14T02:40:57.151+10:00Tour Divide, day 19, Grants<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div class="m-1493482973778187099p1">
<span class="m-1493482973778187099s1"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="m-1493482973778187099p1">
<span class="m-1493482973778187099s1"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Unfortunately, we
woke to discover that the winds of the day before hadn't changed their
trajectory.</span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099s1"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">This
meant that instead of cruising along at 30+ km/hr, we would be working hard to
manage 18, if that.</span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099s1"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
was happy to let the other two disappear up the road in aero format, and for
the first and only time on the Tour popped in my ear buds and listened to tunes
for half the day, if only to distract the mind from everything that hurt</span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099s1"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">From a physical perspective
i was holding up OK, although managed to strain the groin a few more
times, simply during the process of getting on and off the bike. At
this stage even on bitumen, all the contact points were painful, so the
whole day would be spent restlessly shifting from one position to another, holding
out for as long as possible before standing for a stretch or adjusting
to a hopefully less painful poise, and the whole process would
repeat....for hour upon hour.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-1493482973778187099p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-1493482973778187099p1">
<span class="m-1493482973778187099s1"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">A
large shaded tunnel mid way provided the perfect opportunity to escape the heat, have a feed and a bit of a lie down, and ponder the amazing reverberating echoes courtesy of the corrugated tunnel lining, before getting moving again.</span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099s1"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
couldn't imagine doing day after day of pavement in similar fashion, as is
presumably required for road events such as the Indian Pacific back home.</span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-1493482973778187099p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-1493482973778187099p1">
<span class="m-1493482973778187099apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099s1"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We
were hoping to make the deliciously named Pie Town, but this didn't seem likely
given the heat and wind.</span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099s1"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It
was hard enough just getting to the major resupply town of Grants in the late
afternoon furnace.</span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099s1"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Craig
had forged ahead of us and kindly had some cold cans of coke waiting for us
when we rolled in.</span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099s1"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We
indulged in pizza before hitting the gas station on the outskirts of town and
pressing on in the late afternoon, when the road sidled around a series of
spectacular sandstone cliffs adorned with natural arches.</span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099s1"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We
finally hit dirt again as the sun dipped and we threw down camp in another
paddock populated by the tell-tale signs of cows.</span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1493482973778187099s1"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It
was a disappointing day with regards kilometres covered, but sometimes you've
just got to take whatever the weather gods dish out.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-1493482973778187099p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-1493482973778187099p1">
<span class="m-1493482973778187099s1"><span style="font-family: "American Typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">(221 km and 1295
meters)</span></span></div>
<div class="m-1493482973778187099p1">
<br /></div>
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-81471619455751984742017-07-14T02:12:00.001+10:002017-07-14T02:42:02.901+10:00Tour Divide, day 18, Abiquiu and Cuba<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div class="m-53426049900740121p1">
<span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Our motley party
packed and rolled the 30 odd clicks from El Rito to Abiquiu, where we
breakfasted and resupplied at the adobe-style gas station.</span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I'd
read that the section between Abiquiu and Cuba was one of the toughest of the
entire Divide route, and so it turned out to be.</span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
day was heating up fast as we dragged up some steep inclines through rocky and
sandy sections, which were to become the order of the day. </span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-53426049900740121p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-53426049900740121p1">
<span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">A short descent resulted
in a front tyre puncture for Craig.</span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
puncture itself seemed to have sealed however the tyre had burped at one point and simply refused to seal up again, so Craig ended up putting a
tube in whilst Miro and I fiddled with kit, grateful for any excuse to have a
break.</span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Under
way again the main obstacle of the morning ensued; an unrelenting 15 km climb through sand and rocky slabs up a never-ending ridge.</span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
sand robbed you of flow and energy, whilst the rocky slabs punished the backside.</span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It
was tough painful graft in the sun and we stopped about three times to collect our
breaths before gaining the top of the plateau.</span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Once
up on top it was far from over.</span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-53426049900740121p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-53426049900740121p1">
<span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
route profile showed an undulating progression for the next 70 km but hid the
micro details of constant little ups and downs that progressively sapped
strength and the will to live.</span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Not
to mention some pretty heinous rocky descents where coming off would have
required hospitalisation.</span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Even
though only about 120 km in length, both Craig and I thought it the toughest
single (rideable) leg of the entire Divide route, and that was in the context of some
cloud cover that came over midway through, so it wasn't nearly as hot as it
might have been.</span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">That
said I was still well into my second bladder by the time we fought a nasty
headwind to gain Cuba, complete with dog welcoming committee, for a late
afternoon feed and resupply. </span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-53426049900740121p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-53426049900740121p1">
<span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The next sector,
from Cuba to Grants, all 160 km of it, was sealed, initially through mostly
expansive rolling flatlands.</span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Perfect
chance to smack down some big kilometres.</span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
only problem, however, was the wind, which was strongly not in our favour.</span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We mulled over staying put in a hotel for the night, but itchiness, despite the
wind, won us over.</span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
was still very concerned about getting to the end in reasonable time, and we
pushed into the breeze till an hour after dark before bailing off the side of
the road.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-53426049900740121p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-53426049900740121p1">
<span class="m-53426049900740121s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">(200 km and 2675 m)</span></span></div>
<div class="m-53426049900740121p1">
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Above: a "horny toad" lizard, Craig spied on the trail</div>
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-51700894080060663352017-07-14T01:47:00.000+10:002017-07-18T17:45:49.993+10:00Tour Divide, day 17, New Mexico, re-route, El Rito<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">This was a
significant morning for us.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">After
a typically slow start courtesy of my inability to do anything efficiently,
including getting water from the river, Craig and I clawed our way up a steep
bitumen climb (La Manga Pass) before being emptied onto the dirt and a sign
that said New Mexico.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">After
all this time we'd finally hit the last of a long list of states and provinces,
from Alberta through British Columbia, Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado and
now New Mexico.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">For
the first time, perhaps, I started to believe that even though I'd been on my
knees for a long time I might actually get to the end of this thing. </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We climbing our way
onto a ridge and followed its gently meandering wanderings for some time, past stunted
pines and a colour palette that increasingly reminded me of country
New South Wales back home.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It
was a land of sun-burnt tan and straw-coloured grasslands and rolling hills
intermittently punctuated by small struggling trees.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
giveaway that this was hardly Australia was the odd snow drift, reminding one
that we were still up round 3000 m.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We kept particular
attention on our collective odometers.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">At
km 137 we'd hopefully arrive at a crucial junction then change to a different
GPX file on our Garmins to navigate along the re-route.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Worked
perfect.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">After
following a contour in heavy pine forest we started a long and
gradual descent down a terrific ridge before a right hand turn tipped us onto bitumen.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">At
Del Norte and Platoro we'd stocked up big time, anticipating no resupply for an extended period, but somehow missed the fine print indicating a restaurant on
this bitumen sector, so you can imagine our delight when it came into view. We parked our bikes next to those belonging to Peter and another rider who'd been
comfortably ahead of us for days, Miroslav Novak. Peter was naturally in the
process of leaving.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">In
fact that would be the last we'd see of him as he made his push to the end.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We ordered we
chatted a little with Miro who was busy procrastinating</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">. Like
me he was in the wars, with numb painful toes (mine had been numb
since day one although I wasn't so bothered), but
most crucially with undercarriage issues, carrying some open saddle sores that
just wouldn't heal.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">This
was one department where I considered myself lucky.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Although
I'd developed some scabby sores after the first 2 days, the change in knicks
had done the trick, to the extent that i now hod some nice calluses and hadn't needed to apply more butt cream
for the last week. </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Miro asked me point
blank if we were riding to the end together.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It
was something we'd never discussed, but probably both considered possible given
our complementary paces - I could make up time on climbs if required but Craig
was the better technical rider in the rough and on descents, and was quicker on
flat sections with his aero setup.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">So we'd often ride apart, although together, the elastic stretching one way then the other before merging once more, often within the confines of a gas station or cafe. He
had an extremely high cadence compared to mine that even appeared delicate or
fragile, but this betrayed the fact that he could maintain this rhythm for hours
on end, day after day after day, without seeming to tire.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></span></div>
<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Craig was an interesting chap too.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">A
keen outdoorsman, he'd walked three of the top tier walks in the country, the
so-called triple crown; the Pacific Crest Trail, the Appalachian Trail, and the
Continental Divide Trail, which was different to the mtb version we were on,
but crossed it many times.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">That's
a lot a walking!</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Craig
frequently pointed out points where the two trails crossed, and knew the type of terrain to come
before we got to it, and the layout of resupply towns - a useful chap to have
around!</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">He
was also quite the naturalist, helping me with the ID of birds and animals we'd
see along the way.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">He
also embodied the classic American optimism - funnily he reminded me of Bud
Lightyear, a counterpoint to my more dour pessimistic outlook (i.e., Woody), but at the end
of the day we seemed to get on well and enjoy each other's company.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Perhaps
we would get to the end together.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Miro
kicked off as Craig and I went through burritos, quesadillas and multiple
milkshakes. </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Back on the road an
hour or two later Craig and I rounded a corner to see Miro on the deck,
wrestling with his bike in the sun.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">A
"chain checker", attached to the frame directly adjacent the small chainring had
rattled loose and was now impeding its rotation.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
only way to access it was to remove the cranks altogether.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Craig
and I winced as Miro bashed away with a rock to pop the crankset out
of the frame, allowing access to the offending chain checker which was removed
altogether before everything was put back in place.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It looked like our
party of two had just become three as we pushed on.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We
finally got to the tiny town of Vallecitos, signifying the end of the re-route
section and were met with the local welcoming committee in the form of a
squadron of small dogs that rushed out of gates to gives us a sample of their
appreciation.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">This
ritual, that hadn't occurred anywhere along the Divide till now, was repeated
at pretty much every New Mexican town we entered.</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Ideally
we would have liked to have made Abiquiu by day's end, but come </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s2"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">10
pm</span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> we'd simply run out of puff and
desire, so bivvy'd under the cover of a small performance stage in a park in
the the little town of El Rito instead. </span></span><span class="m-1182107887474682453apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<span class="m-1182107887474682453s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">(205 km, 2768 m)</span></span></div>
<div class="m-1182107887474682453p1">
<br /></div>
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-17155394576023821782017-07-13T04:28:00.002+10:002017-07-13T04:34:26.905+10:00Tour Divide, day 16, Canero Pass, Del Norte, Indiana Pass, Platoro<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span class="m-4307110890740000457s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s2"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></span><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The routine was well
set, starting by extracting oneself painfully from the sleeping bag, although I
wasn't sticking to it anymore.</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">By
bonding the edges of two jumbo-sized bandages together I could cover the whole
wound on my hip.</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Breakfast
consisted of a sandwhich, a snickers bar and an Advil.</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Almost
the hardest part of the morning for me was simply getting my right leg over the
top tube.</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">My
right groin was a real mess, courtesy of the accident, and I seemingly managed
to re-pull whatever tear I had several times a day.</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Once
on the bike we'd be creeping.</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Half
an hour or so later, usually as the first climb of the day is being knocked over
(Carnero Pass), layers would be stripped. The first descent was usually done
with eyes and stomach fixed on brunch in the next tow (La Garita).</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">This
descent was a fabulous trip through a</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">rocky
gorge, with spectacular cliffs rising on either side.</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
only problem was that being slightly off route, we somehow missed La Garita
altogether.</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">After
a bit of a backtrack we decided it wasn't worth the effort and pushed on to the
bigger town of Del Norte.</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">To
get there we passed through some fabulous mesas and cliff country along sandy
and rocky double track.</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Many
of the views might have been pulled right out of a Sergio Leone spaghetti
western.</span></span></div>
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<span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Having filled
stomachs and food caches at Del Norte we set off to climb Indiana Pass, the
highest route of the entire tour.</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">This
was a toughy, with extended steep ramps down low, and effectively three summits
over a 15 km stretch up high.</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Naturally
some fantastic views were to be had before the plummet down the back, which was
also notable as being one of the roughest on tour with loose stones strewn all
over the shop punctuated with some incredible views.</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Craig
and I were just happy to get down the other side with our tyres intact, marveling at how tough mountain bikes were given the punishment they soaked up,
day after day.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-4307110890740000457p3">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-4307110890740000457p3">
<span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We limped into the
one-store-does-everything town of Platoro and ordered a few meals for dinner.</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
staff also kindly downloaded GPX files onto our Garmins covering the fire-related
re-route through the northern part of New Mexico which we would tackle the
following day.</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">This
was also another stage where we arrived before Peter, but not for long.</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Peter
had the nouse to have already secured digs further down the mountain.</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Craig
and I considered staying at Platoro but felt the urge to similarly press on
before dark.</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">After
more shuddering gravelly descending we ended up at a nice campground at Rainbow Lake and
settled in for another cold night.</span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It
was here that Peter got another jump on us in the morning, most likely cruising past our
bivvys before we'd even stirred.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-4307110890740000457p3">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-4307110890740000457p3">
<span class="m-4307110890740000457s3"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">(189 km, 2796 m)</span></span></div>
<div class="m-4307110890740000457p3">
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-31429317381328263422017-07-13T04:03:00.000+10:002017-07-14T01:16:46.498+10:00Tour Divide, day 15, Salida, Marshall Pass, Cotchetopa Pass<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Just like the
previous one, doing anything the next morning was a real struggle.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">What
a wretched mess I was.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Once
again Craig patiently waited 10-15 minutes for me to get my gear stowed and
roll out.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We had 30-40 km to
do over a minor pass before dropping into the town of Salida.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Just
before the top we rounded a corner and startled half a dozen elk.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
didn't think anything of it, but 100 m later Craig asked me to stop, having
spied something 20 meters off the trail to our right.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
couldn't see it so back-glided a few meters, just in time to see it flush,
although Craig saw it much better.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">A
mountain lion turned on its axis and slunk past a rock and vanished - a first
for Craig, who despite years of serious hiking had never seen one before.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">High
five!</span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="m-5320716300700586240p1">
<span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We dropped into
Salida and found a cafe for breakfast. I was quite emotional regarding my predicament.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Between
bites I was texting home back and forth, tears running down my face
intermittently for half an hour.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Fair
to say I wasn't holding it together terribly well.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
staff didn't comment, nor did Craig, sitting opposite, who must have wondered what sort of mental
case he'd tethered himself to.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
was just having a tough time.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Ever
since day two I'd been hamstrung with an accumulation of persistent injuries.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
finally felt I was getting back to some sort of manageable normality, until
now, with the crash bringing me back close to zero on numerous levels.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></span><br />
<span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="m-5320716300700586240p1">
<span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We finished
breakfast, I composed myself, and once again I wished Craig well, citing the
need to just do everything at a snail's pace, including procuring some bandages
better able to contain my weeping hip.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
found the local Safeway and was cruising the isles, cleats conspicuously
clacking, when a strapping middle aged man asked what on earth I was up to,
given my ragged attire.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
explained and he seemed mightily impressed and wished me well.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Ten
minutes later I found myself in the same checkout just behind him, complete
with usual resupply items along with a couple of packs of the largest bandages
I could find as well as antibiotic cream.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">As
his produce was being swiped he added, "and I'm paying for his stuff
too".</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
tried to protest but in the end all I could offer was that I didn't have the
energy to fight him over it, and thanked him once again.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Suburban
trail magic, at just the right time given my state of mind.</span></span><br />
</div>
<div class="m-5320716300700586240p1">
<span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The rest of the
day's agenda included Marshall Pass, another biggy but starting from a much
lower altitude than from Breckenridge the previous day.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It
was another tempo climb but I was struggling with the heat and the alternating
rock-strewn and sandy surface.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">About
half way up, on a shadeless section I heard the sudden hiss of my rear wheel
having punctured.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
rolled on for half a dozen revolutions hoping for sealant to deal with it, but
alas no.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
was lucky to still have time enough to plug the hole with a tool, then
sealed it with a dedicated worm of rubber - my first ever tyre plug!</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">After
pumping the thing back up I was once again on my way.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
descent this time was into a head wind, robbing me of the normal reward for
hauling up such a peak. </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><br />
</div>
<div class="m-5320716300700586240p1">
<span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I rolled into the
outpost of Sargents and once again parked my rig next to Craig's. </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We ordered lunch and prepared mentally for a long march into the
wind which would consume most of the rest of the day.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Somewhere
into this march my guts gave me the tell-tale signs that something in that
burger had disagreed with me.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Rather
than try to argue the toss I pulled over for the first of three trail-side
dumps as shadows lengthened. We were once again looking at a bivvy between
towns and climbed the Cochetopa Pass in fading light. Fortunately this pass had the perfect surface for descending under
lights to a low point where overnight temperatures would be milder.</span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We parked next to a stream, allowing for a bit of a sponge bath to
clean up filthy legs before crawling into sleeping bags.</span></span><br />
</div>
<div class="m-5320716300700586240p1">
<span class="m-5320716300700586240s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">(210 km and 2456 m
vert)</span></span><br />
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-22344153027721153402017-07-13T03:41:00.001+10:002017-07-13T04:29:48.385+10:00Tour Divide, day 14, Silverthorne, Breck, Boreas, Hartsel<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div class="m-1906537893069131946p1">
<span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Up till this point
I'd found mornings difficult, but this one was on another level, with oozing
hip and torn muscles in my groin making simply standing, dressing and packing kit (with dud hands) extremely
challenging.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Even
getting my foot over the top tube was non-trivial.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Craig
must have regretted being saddled with such a companion, and that doesn't take
into account my snoring.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> From an observer's perspective, turning the pedals was literally the only thing i could do with any vague sense of normality.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-1906537893069131946p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-1906537893069131946p1">
<span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We
eventually got going, ascending Ute Pass before descending paved road into
Silverthorne.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We
breakfasted at a Chipotle, which had a good sized bathroom in which I addressed
wounds.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
was crawling so bid Craig good day, and eventually got back onto the scenic
bike path that would take me on through the tourist towns of Frisco and
Breckenridge, with spectacular views of mountains rising from the Dillon
Reservoir.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
hit a gas station at the end of Breckenridge for resupply. </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-1906537893069131946p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-1906537893069131946p1">
<span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Breckenridge marked
the start of one of the highest passes on the tour, Boreas Pass, which was
achieved after climbing an even grade for about 20 km.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">These
tempo climbs are my bread and butter, and I daresay I enjoyed tapping out my own rhythm
up the mostly forested climb, even passing some other cyclists along the way.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
top was spectacular and I parked my bike next to the sign and took some pics,
as one does.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">After
the events of the day before I was finally feeling upbeat.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
gingerly remounted and was soon whipped away by a stiff tail wind on the
descent. </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-1906537893069131946p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-1906537893069131946p1">
<span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I was enjoying the
descent but my mood changed rapidly when I glanced down at the etrex and noted
that I was no longer on route.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
couldn't understand it as I'd been on the lookout, as always, for any road
junctions on the way down.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It
took me half an hour to re-grind my way back uphill into the headwind to find
the cryptic single track I'd missed.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Certainly not an obvious turn off for rookies.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">To
rub salt into the wound I then had a silly crash entering the rocky start to
the "Gold dust trail", further bashing up all my sore bits, and
aggravating my groin injuries from the day before.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
was furious.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">All
so I could navigate the "Boreas trench", which was actually quite a
nice trail, if not contrived, but I just wasn't in the mood.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-1906537893069131946p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-1906537893069131946p1">
<span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The trail eventually
dumped me back onto a dirt road with the tail wind still present.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I was still angry with missing the turn and the crash, full of endorphins no doubt, so wound it up a notch. The wind
blew me through Como then on towards Hartsel.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I was absolutely cranking.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Distant
storm clouds and damp road indicated I was chasing the weather system ahead,
but never quite catching it.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">On review, Strava tells me that as of writing, in a field of 170, i now own the KOM for the 38 km dirt segment between junctions 285 and 24 (my first Strava KOM!).</span></span></div>
<div class="m-1906537893069131946p1">
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<div class="m-1906537893069131946p1">
<span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Unbelievably I was going to make the town of Hartsel by </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s2"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">7
pm</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Half
of me wanted to bomb through and use as much assistance as the wind would give.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">However
I weakened when I saw Craig's rig parked outside the only restaurant in town.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">He'd
only just sat down, so we promptly ordered dinner, but didn't get out of there
till </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s2"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">7:40</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">,
by which stage the wind had lost much of its puff.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We
rolled on for another couple of hours as the sun dropped and the stars emerged,
separated by another sunset the majesty of which could never be properly
captured on image plate.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Extensive
washboarding was the final insult of pain for tired aching joints to top off another tough day on the
Tour Divide.</span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We
finally set camp in a paddock full of cows. </span></span><span class="m-1906537893069131946apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-1906537893069131946p1">
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<div class="m-1906537893069131946p1">
<span class="m-1906537893069131946s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">(223 km, 2458 m)</span></span><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></div>
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-21444527915070477232017-07-13T02:52:00.002+10:002017-07-13T03:42:01.462+10:00Tour Divide, day 13, Steamboat to Williams Fork Reservoir<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div class="m-2705094277264447714p1">
<span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="m-2705094277264447714p1">
<span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The power was back
on by the time I awoke. If only the body could be magically reawakened.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">For
days now I'd been a complete wreck, especially late at night and in the
mornings.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Even
shuffling round the room with my dodgy ankle was an effort. Let alone getting
the rig back down the stairs.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">That
said I found a great place for breakfast and filled up with an omelette, hash
browns, and a stack of pancakes washed down with lots of coffee, an OJ and a milkshake.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
bike had been increasingly prone to chain suck over the last few days, despite
repeated efforts to clean it.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
bike shop didn't open till 9 so I wondered if it would survive one more leg
then have it serviced at Breckenridge instead.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
got my answer barely a few hundred meters out of town when it jammed up again.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">A
local roadie pointed me in the direction of the "Orange Peel" bike
shop.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Brock,
the owner, turned up soon after and began the process of opening the store
(i.e., emptying it of bikes). Bryan turned up too, followed by Craig, as well
as a few of the shop mechanics.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">They
had their work cut out for them.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-2705094277264447714p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-2705094277264447714p1">
<span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I love bike shops
and Orange Peel had some real character.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
circular building housing the workshop was once a timber yard. </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Three
curved mechanic alcoves arced around the central cavity.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
shop was also the original home of Moots, a boutique titanium brand now located
elsewhere in town.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Brock
had his hands full dealing with an endless stream of customers as well as
servicing the bike, but kept his cool.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
wasn't overly worried about time - an hour or two weren't going to make much of
a difference in the long run, but having the drive train eat itself out on the
trail certainly would.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We
decided not to change the chain, but the whole drive train was removed for an
industrial clean.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Jockey
wheels were replaced, and in went the spare press fit bearings I'd lugged all
this way.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Oh,
and the rear brake got an oil topup - the lever had been down the bar since
before The Basin.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
got out of there about midday, stopped just down the road for another sandwich,
then got moving.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Steamboat
seemed a nice place.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
wish I'd been able to stay longer.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-2705094277264447714p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-2705094277264447714p1">
<span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">As was often the
case, my getting moving somehow coincided with the similar intentions of
another rider. In this case Bryan.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It
was hot and windy and the trail gradually started to climb.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">According
to the route profile Lynx pass and its following "plateau" was a
lumpy one, with numerous tops and troughs to negotiate.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It
was also possibly going to be a stormy affair with some ominous clouds blowing
in.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
was feeling good today, consequently setting a tempo a little too hot for
Brian.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">A
little higher up the climb I passed Craig who'd stopped by a stream to fill his
bottles.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Craig
and I yo-yo'd a bit before he stopped again to do something and I suggested I'd
soft pedal to let him catch up. </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-2705094277264447714p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-2705094277264447714p1">
<span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The wind was
whipping the trees violently now as I went over one of the Cols.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Thirty
seconds later I scythed round a corner to the sound of a large crack.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
could see what was about to happen but was powerless to do anything about it.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
trunk of a dead aspen had been cast down from the high side of the road,
impacting just meters in front on me and shattering as it bounced off the
surface.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
had no where to go but straight into it and was unable to keep the bike
upright. I slid on my right side long enough to register the pain, and the fact
that my tour was probably over.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Craig
arrived shortly after to help scrape me off the deck.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I'd
done a good job of skinning my right thumb, palm (yes, I know I should be
wearing gloves) elbow, shoulder, but especially hip.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
was a bloody mess, but remarkably didn't appear to have broken anything.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">My
body seemed to have taken the brunt of it as even the bike seemed undamaged,
wheels, rear derailleur and all.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-2705094277264447714p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-2705094277264447714p1">
<span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">A km later I washed
my wounds of grit as best i could and applied some woefully inadequate
bandages on my hip.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">When
I packed my first aid kit I just didn't figure I'd need anything that large.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Needless
to say I was now sore in places I hadn't been previously.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">But
there was not much else I could do apart from get back on and keep pedalling.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Craig
was now soft pedalling for me, if for no other reason than to make sure I
got off the mountain in one piece.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Getting
down was quite technical in places, with a handful of steep abrupt corners you
certainly didn't want to miss. </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-2705094277264447714p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-2705094277264447714p1">
<span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The next pass was a
gentler affair, eventually dumping us on pavement where a tailwind whipped us
down the other side.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
hit over 80 km/hr before squeezing the brakes on a corner I couldn't see
through.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Whether
I liked it or not, as the light faded there wasn't a town with acommodation
within cooee, so despite my state we were going to have to bivvy somewhere.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
industrial wasteland of Kremmling came into view, we turned right, and headed
up a swampy valley looking for somewhere off the trail.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We
found a fisherman's day park area with access to the river.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">At
the very least Craig needed water.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Any
thoughts of staying, however, were immediately quashed by the most intense mosquito
experience of my life.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">They
were everywhere.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Dozens
could be killed just by wiping down arms or legs, only to be replaced
immediately.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Long
sleeve shells and rain pants were hurriedly donned amidst frantic swatting. Once Craig was done with
his water we got the hell out of there, searching for a little more altitude
and a darker hour when mozzies are less active.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We
eventually found a good spot adjacent a toilet block, also by a lake - fortunately the
mozzies had largely turned in by this point.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
felt pretty wretched that night, barely able to move and sticking repeatedly to my
thermals and sleeping bag.</span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">At
least it wasn't raining.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-2705094277264447714p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-2705094277264447714p1">
<span class="m-2705094277264447714s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">(142 km, 2200 m)</span></span></div>
<div class="m-2705094277264447714p1">
<br /></div>
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-18492306771259643412017-07-11T10:37:00.001+10:002017-07-13T02:13:07.018+10:00Tour Divide, day 12, Wamsutter to Steamboat<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div class="m-3131650033975789872p1">
<span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="m-3131650033975789872p1">
<span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The Basin certainly
wasn't over.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Unfortunately
the headwind that had popped up late the previous evening was now well established.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
kitted up and got moving as one, then another, then a procession of trucks and
oversized 4WDs trundled down the road in the opposite direction, dragging huge
plumes of dust in their wake.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Some
of the drivers were pretty courteous, slowing to a crawl on approach.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Others
were oblivious.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">In
short, I ate a lot of dust before gaining the Love's truck stop that marks the
outpost of Wamsutter.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
ate a Foot Long at the attached Subway and ordered another to go, along with
the standard quota of junk food and nuts, filled bladders and plunged back into
the wind. </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-3131650033975789872p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-3131650033975789872p1">
<span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The ever-so-slowly
emerging mountain range coming into view heralded Colorado, my destination for
the day.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Today
was basically a tortuous slow grind, not just with the headwind and generally
upward inclines on loose gravel surface, but the heat.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
previous day was a mild 28-30 C affair.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Today
was 38-40 C.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
was relieved to be this far in and not just setting out across the nothing.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">When
the country is open, wind is everything.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-3131650033975789872p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-3131650033975789872p1">
<span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Eventually I gained
a plateau then plunged down the other side to the valley marking the end of
Wyoming and the start of Colorado.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Almost
crashed a few times in some deep sand traps that caught me by surprise.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">After
a couple of horrendous steep rollers I finally hit bitumen and aimed for a
novel feature I'd not seen in some time - the cool dancing shade projected by a
tree.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Yes,
trees were periodically back in vogue even though the landscape was still
pretty arid.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">At
this point three other riders came past, exiting a cafe stop I'd been oblivious
to; Bryan, Craig Fowler, and Brett Stepanik. Brett immediately impressed,
having got this far under the power of a single cog, and seemingly
without the assistance of Lycra.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-3131650033975789872p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-3131650033975789872p1">
<span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We were aiming for
the mythical hospitality of Kirsten and the Brush Mountain Lodge but first had
to deal with another grind up a gravelly hill that seemingly went forever.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">On
top of all my physical niggles I was having issues with chain suck so was the
last to arrive to cheers from all assembled, both cyclists and non cyclists
alike.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Kirsten
welcomed me with a hug and inquired what I'd like on my pizza.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">"However
it comes", I replied.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">15
min later I was in a comfy shaded chair, a couple of sodas at my side, slowly
chomping down pizza, watching hummingbirds dance and parry round an assortment
of feeders.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It
really doesn't get much better.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We
moved bikes under cover as a brief rain storm passed over, and got to chatting
about the Basin etc.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Seems
I'd enjoyed it more than most, the previous day at least.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Craig
was originally from Boston but now resided in Colorado.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
wasn't to know it at this stage but I'd be sharing a lot more of the journey
with him.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Brett
had his feet soaking in an ice bucket and a beer in hand while his clothes were being laundered.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">He looked settled in.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-3131650033975789872p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-3131650033975789872p1">
<span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">As tempting as it
was to stay the night (you've no idea), Craig, Bryan and I felt the need to
press on and see if we could make Steamboat Springs.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">All
of us had bike issues that needed serious attention if we were to progress much
further, and whilst we could have waited for the morning, my view was that we
should move whilst conditions were good.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We
thanked Kirsten for her hospitality and somewhat reluctantly shoved off further
up the hill.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
top of the pass involved a bit of a walk, and the descent was a real
bone-shaker, but we finally made the bitumen under lights and got into Steamboat
about 11.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
hotel manager chewed my ear off for 20 min before I could escape and painfully
and awkwardly drag my rig up the stairs to the room.</span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
hobbled out of the shower just as lights for the entire village blacked out -
perfect cue to collapse into bed.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-3131650033975789872p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-3131650033975789872p1">
<span class="m-3131650033975789872s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">(240 km, 2382 m)</span></span></div>
<div class="m-3131650033975789872p1">
<br /></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Wamsutter in the distance</div>
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Brett Stepanik, just before Brush Mountain Lodge</div>
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-63654023233635324512017-07-11T10:17:00.001+10:002017-07-13T02:14:17.893+10:00Tour Divide, day 11, Pinedale to Wamsutter<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">This was one of those less mountainous transition days where
big distance could be covered if a few things went your way. Peter and I
headed out quite late by Divide standards, not hitting the road till about
6:30. Although many consider The Basin proper not to start till Atlantic
City, much of the terrain already felt pretty "out there". Typically,
although riding as a pair, we spent most hours leap frogging each other and
riding big chunks out of sight and effectively alone. I met some
interesting parties riding in the opposite direction including a pair of Aussie
chicks who were doing the trail at a more relaxed pace and had endured head
winds for three consecutive days, and a party on horseback from Montana in
traditional western cowboy garb who had their own adventure well under
way. Another terrific way to see the country I reckon.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Pete and I came together again just before Atlantic City, an
historic town consisting of just a handful of remaining buildings, including
the saloon, with an interior lined with enough animal busts to keep a
taxidermist happy for some time. We lunched and ordered sandwiches to go
for the flight across the basin, topping up with ice cream at Wild Bill's gun
and knife shop at the other end of town where I also dumped my bear
spray. Pete had already dispensed his, which I thought a good
experiment. Safety off, I simply lacked the thumb strength to depress the
lever, which wouldn't have been particularly useful had I actually needed
it. I had so little opposed-thumb grip strength at this stage that I had
to use mini pliers to engage and zip up my jersey. I feared that if my
left thumb progressed to the same extent I'd be stuffed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The Basin has a bit of a reputation with regards water, so
for the first time on the Tour I filled the 3 L bladder I'd been carrying on my
back, as well as the one in my frame bag. From here till the end I'd
always fill both. The grind out of Atlantic City in the heat of the day
was tough, but as vistas of The Basin unfolded, with a gentle tail-cross wind
in assistance, much of the hardship of the last handful of days vanished.
The silhouette of the Yellowstone massif i was leaving behind shrunk as I
drifted south into the nothing. This was why I was doing the Tour
Divide. I found The Basin mesmerising. Many parts reminded me of
the undulating velvet expanses of central Australia. Vistas of the
Painted Desert and Oodnadatta track came to mind. Peter had earlier discussed a
possible bivvy spot on a ridge of note somewhere in the middle, but given
favourable winds I quickly decided that this was an opportunity to make up time
on that already lost, so forged ahead.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">About halfway through the emptyness the terrain slowly
climbs and man-made objects appear suddenly appear; old oil
pumps and other signs of industry. Hence commenced the Wamsutter re-route
sector, involving vague double track up and along the edge of an ancient angled slab of crumbling strata. Pronghorn antelope scattered as I moved along
its rim, with different views folding away on either side. Magical stuff,
if not a tough grind in places. Eventually a more conventional dirt track
was gained with the sun aiming for the horizon over my right shoulder. I
was over 200 km for the day and kept pushing although the wind was
starting to wain as spectacular pink hues lit the sky in front of me. The
calling cards of animals told me that considerable numbers of cattle and horses
inhabited these paddocks so I pushed on, not wanting to get trampled during the
night. A dozen cattle grids later the horse and cow pats disappeared,
replaced by more evidence of industry - dozens if not hundreds of coal-seam gas
enterprises humming in the distance, some marked by the occasional light on a
stalk.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">By this stage I was at about 270 km for the day.
Wamsutter was another few hours ahead as by this stage the wind had definitely
changed from cross to head, so rather than bust my chops I started looking for
a flat place to kip. There were no large animals worry to about, given
the clean track, but the sound of pumps and compressors was almost impossible
to avoid. How's the serenity? Ironic given I was theoretically in
the middle of nowhere. In the end tiredness won and I threw down camp
just off the road and slept pretty soundly after what was a pretty satisfying
day, despite the background hum, awaking with a start to the alarm, which was
shortly followed by the rumblings of a large truck heralding that the basin
wasn't done with yet.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">(272 km, 2119 m)</span></div>
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-590875015293565482017-07-11T04:21:00.003+10:002017-07-31T09:07:11.220+10:00Tour Divide, day 10, Coulter Bay to Pinedale<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div class="m-3402923770841586873p1">
<span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I slunk out of the
camping site and up to the junction where I found a tap at the gas
station which was still yet to open, and filled my frame bag bladder.</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Barely
10 seconds after getting back on route I turned to see Peter, then Tyler,
cruising back up to me.</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
timing was comical.</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We'd
all gone effectively separate ways the previous evening yet here we were back
in sync first thing in the morning.</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">First
pit stop was a small trailside cafe adjacent a classic vista of a ranch
packed with horses in front of a mountainous backdrop.</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Like
a magnetic attraction, the sight of bikes parked outside an establishment
triggered us to check it out too.</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Bikes
already out front belonged to Alex and Per whom we found inside demolishing
breakfast.</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Some
coffee later, Alex, Per, Tyler and I rolled out just as cowboys were moving a
mob of horses from one paddock to another via the main road.</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Best
not to mess with a galloping herd!</span></span></div>
<div class="m-3402923770841586873p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-3402923770841586873p1">
<span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The main obstacle
for the day was Union Pass, which we were all a little nervous about given that
some northbound riders a few weeks prior had taken 9 hours to get over it, such
was the extent of the snow.</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">As
we climbed higher more unexpected pit stops followed in quick succession;
Turpin Meadows Lodge, then Togwotee lodge.</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Fully
refreshed we were ready for battle with Union. </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-3402923770841586873p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-3402923770841586873p1">
<span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Whilst there were
some protracted snow-locked segments with assorted bogs on the fringes, these
passed quicker than expected, and the views all round were absolutely stunning
as we skirted round the underside of the Yellowstone massif.</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
protracted descent down the other side was also a bit of a slop fest, but we all
successfully emerged at the junction with a more major trail, and took a break
to de-gunge frames and oil chains.</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We
set off again hoping to make Pinedale by day's end.</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Pinedale
was significant as it effectively marks the end of the possibility of being
mauled by a Grizzly, as well as marking the start of the Great Basin which
extends 400 km due south.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-3402923770841586873p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-3402923770841586873p1">
<span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We split up somewhat
on the descent.</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Alex
and Per were too quick for Peter and I, and Tyler seemed content to travel at a
more relaxed pace again.</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Peter
and I enjoyed a rare tailwind, coupled with mostly sealed road and an amazing
sunset, to roll into Pinedale late with most things shut, but found Alex and
Per already tucking into food at one of the few places that was open.</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Peter
and I opted for the Hotel next door, more than happy to get our own rooms - I
was craving my own space, and Peter wanted to avoid my snoring, so it was all
good.</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Another
shower at last, and wifi to boot.</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
was so relieved.</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
don't think I got to sleep till </span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s2"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">1
am</span></span><span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-3402923770841586873p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-3402923770841586873p1">
<span class="m-3402923770841586873s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">(224 km, 2537 m)</span></span></div>
<div class="m-3402923770841586873p1">
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We leave the Tetons behind</div>
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Tyler</div>
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Per</div>
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Alex</div>
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The push over Union Pass</div>
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Yellowstone massif in the distance</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Alex (above) and Per (below)</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Peter (above) and Tyler (below)</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
(Last 3 photos from Peter Kraft)</div>
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-70033428166046465542017-07-11T03:55:00.001+10:002017-07-31T09:04:42.966+10:00Tour Divide, day 9, Lakeview to Coulter Bay<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="m-3249714588785075406p1">
<span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Somehow we only got
a sprinkle during the night, so packing kit was not the soggy affair we feared.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Naturally
Peter was first off but we yo-yo'd back and forth with wardrobe changes, not to
mention stopping to take in some stunning landscapes.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
caught Peter stopped up ahead over a small rise adjacent a sign and only
realised the significance of it once I got there.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Montana,
beautiful and challenging as it was, had gone on forever, and now we were
about to leave it behind and enter pocket-sized Idaho, at least from our perspective.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Several
segments of singletrack later we were in Sawtell/Big Springs, filling up on
Subway, and doing the standard resupply. </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
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<span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I was enjoying the
change of scenery until a km or two into the "rail trail", a narrow
sandpit of coarse particulate that extended as far as the eye could see (for
about 40 km!), sapping one of strength, cheating one of traction, and pounding
the posterior, joints and tendons with a frequency of </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s2"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">2-3
Hz</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It
was akin to a rippled river bed drained of water.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I'm
sure Idaho has some other desirable features, but the rail trail ain't one of
them.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">About
3 hrs later, however, justification for the rail trail became apparent, as the
old line gradually descended and wound its way into a picturesque forested
gorge full of walkers, campers and holiday makers.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Truly
spectacular stuff.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
would have loved to have taken a dip at numerous points, but the compulsion to
keep things ticking over was too much.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">At
the trail's conclusion a short sharp climb out of the gorge delivers one to
another classic vista of rolling fields with some dramatic mountains in the
distance - the Tetons, presumably coupled with the Yellowstone massif behind
them. </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="m-3249714588785075406p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-3249714588785075406p1">
<span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Somehow I missed the
Squirrel Creek Ranch feed, but I was now out of Idaho and into Wyoming, and had
enough food and drink to at least get me to Flagg Ranch Resort, up on a high
plateau, gained after climbing through some lovely forest, the odd snow drift
and alpine meadows.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Just
before gaining Flag Ranch I thought I saw some large white swans (Trumpeter?)
on the adjacent river so took a side road to check them out;</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">white
Pelicans, of all things, at altitude!</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
got back on route just as Alex Hawkins and Per Lofstrand cruised past, and
managed to catch them as we gained Flagg Ranch, one of the more bombastic
camping/resort complexes you are ever likely to see.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Tyler
was also there, having managed to get temporarily lost in the suburb sized
cabin/RV/camping area.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
traipsed into the main resort building, found my way to the bar, and ordered
dinner next to Tyler and Peter.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
general store attached had all we needed for resupply.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-3249714588785075406p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-3249714588785075406p1">
<span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Coulter Bay, just
over the hill, was the evening destination, and whilst Peter left before us,
Tyler and I ground our way at a more sedate pace up and over the pass before
dropping to the lake on the other side, greeted in magnificent splendour by the
Tetons captured by the setting sun.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Truly
magical views.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">We
stopped a few times for pics but darkness caught up with us for the final drag
into town.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Tyler
took a liking to a spot by the side of the road and opted to bivvy there.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
was still concerned over the possibility of bear encounters so decided to push
on into the dark to the imagined safety of Coulter Bay itself.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Not
much happening when I arrived.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
got directions to cabins and the camping area from a closing restaurant.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
was actually desperate for a cabin and the possibility of a shower, but they
were booked solid so crept into the camping area, which was also pretty packed,
and rolled out my bivvy between a few bushes separating designated, occupied
sites, importantly not too far from the toilet block.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Anything
involving walking, actually hobbling, at this stage was pretty painful, let
alone simply standing up or sitting down, where knees, ankles and achillies
would scream at me over such extremes of flexion.</span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
stashed my food into the adjacent squeaky bear cage and was out like a light,
and gone before anyone had stirred early the next morning.</span></span></div>
<div class="m-3249714588785075406p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="m-3249714588785075406p1">
<span class="m-3249714588785075406s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">(207 km, 1583 m)</span></span></div>
<div class="m-3249714588785075406p1">
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Peter and Tyler at the Montana-Idaho border</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Rail trail, with the odd bridge to break the monotony</div>
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Tyler</div>
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Tetons</div>
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langleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17384106028861455125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2044141264217142273.post-67305603136029734062017-07-11T03:29:00.000+10:002017-07-13T02:28:50.871+10:00Tour Divide, day 8, Bannack SP, Lima, Lakeview<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The alarm startled
me, always a good indicator of having been in the midst of a solid snooze.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
woofed down my sandwich whilst kitting up and dismantling and rolling up the
bivvy, and packing everything into its place.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Another
cold morning and a headwind to boot.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">That's
one thing that hadn't let up thus far - the cold!</span></span></div>
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<span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The first pass of
the day, alongside Medicine Lodge Peak and over the Sheep Creek Divide takes
one through some stupendously beautiful country - bare alpine hills up gentle
slopes, but with a sting in the tail at the top, where I stopped to take some
pics of majestic distant peaks.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Shortly
after Bryan and Nic arrived, having stayed at High Mountain Lodge the previous
eve, as had pretty much everyone else.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
didn't care.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
was enjoying the freedom of marching to my own drum.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
left achilles, ankle, and right knee and undercarriage were holding steady, and
I was starting to believe I might survive a little longer. </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
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<span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The descent was a
long but shallow affair, eventually taking us down a spectacular rocky gorge
before spitting us onto a road with another headwind to deal with.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
let the aero boys do their thing and I caught up with them in Lima where we ate
the house down.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Pete
turned up a little later having suffered on the previous climb - one of the
rare times I hit a target before him.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">After
resupplying at the gas station we left en masse for the long afternoon march up
a wide valley towards Lakeview and ultimately Sawtell/Big Springs.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
only problem with the plan concerned distant rain squalls washing across the
vista in front of us.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Soon
we hit their natural aftermath in the form of approx 20 km of seriously boggy
trail.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">One
had to assume tractor mode, for a long time!</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">It
was a miracle we got through with derailleurs intact.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">I
passed Eddie on the side of the road struggling to get things turning again.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Even
the odd 4WD that passed was having issues keeping trajectory straight.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The
speedy ones among us, Nic and Bryan, pushed through but when I arrived at
Lakeview I decided that was enough.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Just
sufficient light to throw down camp and get the drive train washed and lubed.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">At
Lima I'd purchased a new toothbrush to replace the sawn-off one I'd originally
brought with me to save weight - my hands were so useless I couldn't use the
damn thing.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">But
given the state of the bike the new brush was immediately employed for chain
and cassette cleaning duties.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">My
teeth would have to wait a little longer. </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Peter also turned
up, followed by Tyler, and eventually Eddie, having got his chain moving again.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Tyler
had the smarts to commandeer a miniature horse float which doubled as the bear
food cage, at the very least keeping his kit dry.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Both
Pete and I wished we'd thought of it first.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Bonus
dirtbag marks to Tyler!</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Despite
everything, niggles, weather and the prospect of another night sleeping in my
own filth, I dare say I was starting to find my groove.</span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528apple-converted-space"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></span><span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Lights
out!</span></span></div>
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<div class="m8022983979964644528p1">
<span class="m8022983979964644528s1"><span style="font-family: "american typewriter"; font-size: 11.0pt;">(221 km, 1766 m)</span></span></div>
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Nic (above) and Bryan (below)</div>
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I was feeling pretty handicapped at times so parked accordingly</div>
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Bryan (above) and Nic (below)</div>
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